Need some help from the auto guru's here please

[sailor55330]

Ok, so I hop in the Sequoia last week and I have a high pitched squeal coming from the front right, but only when I turn to the left. Going straight I have nothing. It seems to be at any speed above 15mph. When I first heard it, I thought it was brakes, so I check the pads and cleaned them---all good, no signs of wear and besides, they only have about 7k on them. I thought maybe a caliper hanging, but that doesn't make sense for only when turning. It seems to be speed sensitive as I can hear it "cycle" quicker at higher speeds--in other words, the squealing speeds up. It's something that is making metal-to-metal contact and sounds like only during rotation with weight on the front end of the truck. I get it whether in drive or rolling in neutral, so not drive train related.. When I had the front wheel off looking at the brakes, I spun the rotor by hand and could not replicate the noise. I don't think it's power steering related as I can turn the wheel at idle and it's fine as well as to the right and it's fine. I did the same procedures with the driver's side to be safe. For the life of me it sounds like a brake pad wear indicator, but it's not. Wheel bearing maybe? What else?

[cmattj]

If your resources are available .. lift the front up safely ( stands) parking brake , and then neutral engine off.

Rotate the right front and listen as compared to the left. Move the tire and wheel in and out at the 12/6 o’clock position and compare movements to the driver side.

I suspect you have a wheel bearing failing in the right front hub, as transfer case and CV noise aren’t load side to side sensitive and would be there continually.

If it’s one then do them both. Easy Deal

[akorcovelos]

+1, textbook symptom of failing wheel bearing.

[Big Block Power]

I don't agree with either one of them. I think it's a wheel bearing.

[sailor55330]

Thank you gentlemen. I don’t have the set up to do what you describe CJmatt but it sounds like my suspicion are correct. I don’t have the resources or experience to do a wheel bearing. Going rate around here is about 450 for 1. So call it just short of a grand to do both. I also thing the truck is getting close to needing a water pump which is about 1500 and there are a few other gremlins popping up

I guessthe truck has 10year-itis

[Big Block Power]

Or just do 1 and wait for the other to go. It could go tomorrow or years from now. Like Matt said grab the wheel and see if you feel play in it. It can still be tight and make noise though.

[AsLan7]

Agreed.

Exact symptoms in our 160,000 mile Infiniti M35x a few months ago. Replaced both front wheel bearings. (even though only one was bad) . Problem solved.

[sailor55330]

Thanks again to everyone for the cyberspace diagnosis. I was already thinking the same thing. Called around to 3 different shops. $700 per wheel bearing is the going rate around here---dealer or private repair shop. SO, I'm going to be changing the oil this week and if I see the tell tale sign of the "pink milkshake" as they call it around the water pump which indicates a seeping leek that these vehicles are known for......ugh.

$1500 wheel bearings
$1500 water pump (potentially)
$1500 ring & pinion (potentially).

On an 11 year old vehicle....coupled with some gremlins starting in various electrical switches. It only has 85k on it and looks like showroom, literally.
What would you do?

[NautiGirl]

Thanks again to everyone for the cyberspace diagnosis. I was already thinking the same thing. Called around to 3 different shops. $700 per wheel bearing is the going rate around here---dealer or private repair shop. SO, I'm going to be changing the oil this week and if I see the tell tale sign of the "pink milkshake" as they call it around the water pump which indicates a seeping leek that these vehicles are known for......ugh.

$1500 wheel bearings
$1500 water pump (potentially)
$1500 ring & pinion (potentially).

On an 11 year old vehicle....coupled with some gremlins starting in various electrical switches. It only has 85k on it and looks like showroom, literally.
What would you do?

I am in the same place /w my BMW. Looking at a clutch and some VANOS (BMW Variable Valve Timing) work. The BMW is for sale.

Didn't you want a larger truck for towing anyway? I will say the 1/2 ton market is insane right now, just crazy prices on trucks. Shop around and see what makes sense for you personally.

[akorcovelos]

If you don't have any warning or CEL lights on, and it's something the wallet can digest, I'd take it and trade it in now before the inevitable onslaught of failures begins. $4500 in repairs on a 10 year old truck is just the beginning, have you done the alternator, battery, power steering pump, tune up? If you could do the work yourself Id say fix it and drive it as just parts for all these things aren't all that expensive, but the labor adds up quick, and all the 'while you're in there' work can bump those quotes up in a heartbeat.

[Ytmsn]

85000 miles and mint condition? I'd fix it. That's cheap compared to what a new one costs.

[cmattj]

Considering your immediate needs are Waterpump and hub bearings. ( the diff can wait as it’s not broken enough for repair)
So take the $3000.00 cost this year and break it down as a $ 250.00 monthly cost effectively. That’s easy as a new investment in a truck could then wait right?
Now , once your costs start to exceed $500.00 ish monthly to keep her alive.. then it’s time to consider moving along to your new Chevy . In the meanwhile , I would reactively repair as needed, as it appears to have done well for you in these past years.

[akorcovelos]

I would agree if he was over 100k miles, at 85k that truck will still pull a premium on trade, another year and depreciation hits hard.

[sailor55330]

Again thanks to everyone who helped me come to a decision to spend my money wisely (and a few who tried help me do it foolishly ) I'm due for an oil change, which I always do myself, so I will do a visual inspection on the water pump this weekend. If I don't see the dreaded "pink milkshake" then I'll pop for the wheel bearing replacement and probably take my chances, knowing I need tires soon which is just maintenance and then hope for that famed Toyota longevity.

IF the water pump looks like it's leaking, then I've got to do some thinking as the list could add up very quickly. It's simply a game of what if/maybe.

Matt---as for the new Chevy in the future, who knows.....right? Especially when you bounce me your friends & family discount! j/k!

[TechieTechie]

Well, allow me chime in. A mechanic once told me that cars go thru midlife crises approximately every 75k miles. You dump some major $$$ into the car, then it runs pretty well until the next major 'bump'...at 125k to 150k miles. So if the car is paid off and you don't live in a rustbelt state, it may be worth dumping that $$$ into the car, as it really only equates to about a year of car payments. And given it's a Toyota, you could easily hit 150k or 200k miles before it needs major surgery (i.e. a transmission) or it rusts out from under you.

The other options for keeping the car and keeping the repair costs to a minimum are to
1. Look into a local voc tech school, they may work on cars (tho at this time of year may be hard to get a car into the program)
2. Check on non profits/sliding scale garages that repair autos (FL, MI and MN have programs, as far as I know)
3. Join a Toyota forum and see if someone on the forum can rent you garage space or help you make the repair yourself. You'd be amazed how many folks like to wrench cars (and not necessarily their own) for fun. I did my Z4's full brake job and replacing the convertible motor for the cost of a box of donuts and the parts

Hope this helps.