My '87 DV18 thread...

[akorcovelos]

Generally the rule of thumb is to replace the unit if it's not working. That control is 30+ years old and is critical to safe operation. You can use the opportunity to upgrade to the newer style as you'll need to replace the cables anyway.

Ugg.. I wasn’t expecting to hear that.. hopefully it’s a fairly straightforward swap. I’m assuming the cables are a separate expense and probably custom length. Are there any particular ones to shy away from or to look for that work well and are reliable..? Thx!!

yes cables are separate, and yes they are a specific length, though not custom as they're offered in incremental lengths. The old cables should have the length printed on the casing, if not give Teleflex a call and they should be able to help you find the correct length. Sierra will have them as well, but I personally think the Teleflex units are better quality.

[CobaltRick]

OK… Quick update. I got the new marine battery at my local Walmart. I just decided to get another one of the same that I took out. I brought it home filled the cells with water and it’s charging on a trickle charger right now before I put it in the boat.

I decided, while waiting, to play with the throttle assembly a bit. I took the cover off the arm that moves, to see about the push button for the throttle only feature. I now see that I can actually push it in (not easily) but now it won’t disengage and in fact I can’t even move the throttle at all.. I guess I’ll have to tackle that next before I even try to start this thing up..

Oh yeah, I received the replacement alternator and got that installed ok..

How do I take this thing apart..? The plastic cover with the Quicksilver logo on it is preventing me from accessing the screws behind it that hold it to the wall of the boat.. I guess I could just rip it out with the assumption that the whole enchilada will be replaced anyway..

[Big Block Power]

OK…

How do I take this thing apart..? The plastic cover with the Quicksilver logo on it is preventing me from accessing the screws behind it that hold it to the wall of the boat.. I guess I could just rip it out with the assumption that the whole enchilada will be replaced anyway..

I agree they just hide those darn screws and bolts. I would just give her a good hard pull and get her off the side of the boat. Then take it apart now that is in your hand.

[CobaltRick]

ok.. I may just cut the plastic coverplate off.. It's only about 1/16" thick and easy to pry out a bit -- enough that I could see the big screws behind it.

[CobaltRick]

What a pain to get the throttle handle off!! I’m using a 5/32 Allen wrench and it’s just barely turning with the help of some pliers! Ugg.. The screws that you see in the picture holding the bracket on .. all of them spin and spin and spin. I don’t know yet what they’re supposed to be screwed into but…

175F7AED-5902-4984-9139-C01E9E2BA198.jpeg

[Big Block Power]

They prob have nuts on the back side and the frt side at Least 1 nut

[Big Block Power]

I found you a replacement.

[CobaltRick]

Hmm.. definitely had some use.. lol..

I guess I’d like to know what my options are for a replacement. I think I have another replacement bookmarked on my computer that I found mentioned on another forum as a valid replacement for this throttle.. my brother, in jest I’m sure, suggested converting to drive by wire, which would eliminate most if not all cables running that far forward but I know zilch about those and how much $$.. probably not likely there.

I guess I’m a bit apprehensive about taking out one used part and putting another used one back in for all that effort.

Thoughts?

Ps. If the big issue is associated with the fact that this older throttle has the extra functions on it, which are just electrical switches, why can’t those be relocated to a separate panel..? Anything wrong with that..? Probably not the best option , but it is an option.

[CobaltRick]

Can I use something like this..? I think the only thing missing is the “trailer” button from the old switch setup to raise/lower the drive..hmm

9E4DEEA3-83E0-48C4-BC07-2730710E7176.png

[Lockey14s]

When you say you are trying to remove the allen screw, you are talking about the one at the bottom of the handle right? you have to disconnect the trim wires first. then remove the handle, them the four screws should come out. there shouldnt be any hidden nuts.

this PDF might help ya out
https://f01.justanswer.com/oldnewenglan ... lmount.pdf

[CobaltRick]

Yes! I’m doing exactly that. I was going to remove the handle and then figure out how to disconnect the wires.. I hadn’t even looked at the wires much yet.. I really need to find a long handled Allen driver.. the typical style ain’t cutting it!

Thanks for the PDF!!

[Lockey14s]

youre on the right track. try using some penetrating oil and working it back and forth. Gotta love old stuff!

[Big Block Power]

The new mercury and Volvo controls don't use that trailer button any more. We like rooster tails
Is it the new mercury 3000 control you could switch too?

Here's the real old trim switch they used to put in the helm.

[CobaltRick]

What would keep me from repurposing one of the dash unused switches… I could even mount up a switch that is momentary… In that it springs back to the “off” position when you let go

[Lockey14s]

I re-wired mine to bypass that trailer button. so the thumb trim switch goes all the way up or all the way down.