Trailer modification ideas for R7 Surf

[NE Zack]

So summer is coming quickly and it’s got me thinking about boating. After my trailer incident last year when my boat fwd struck our so called custom made Heritage trailer we made sure we were careful loading and unloading every time however I am going to modify the trailer like I had mentioned I am thinking of installing a swing away Drive protector similar to the Myco trailers And I’m curious what peoples thoughts are on if this and if it would protect the drive. In doing this I would eliminate all of the excess metal next to the drive that supports the skid bars I would make sure to install casters on the swing away Drive protector that would all be lower than the lowest part of the drive

Does anyone have any experience with something like this

I have attached the pictures of the back of my trailer and also the back of a myco trailer
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[AsLan7]

Is it me or does it appear that there is still a lot of metal back there?

[NautiGirl]

Is it me or does it appear that there is still a lot of metal back there?

It's not just you - there are a lot of things for the prop to hit back there. I don't know how you make it better, but man I would be nervous pulling onto that trailer knowing that if I wasnt exactly straight I could be replacing a lower.

[NE Zack]

So my plan is to cut out all of the metal re-work the back bunk support so the outside frame rails support it and then adding a swing away Drive protector similar to the pics

And since we are all geniuses on here I figure we could come up with a way to modify my trailer and of course spend my money

[NautiGirl]

And since we are all geniuses on here I figure we could come up with a way to modify my trailer and of course spend my money

Spend the money yes - spend it in a meaningful way is where we sometimes struggle.

Call in SlideRule if he can fabricate a umbrella mount he can help /w this.

[AsLan7]

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I agree with Nauti above NEZack.

Now, what if you cut out all that vulnerable trailer metal (like in your first pic) and had those exposed side frame rails "slide" into the body of the trailer so they are not in the way while loading...especially if your boat angles sideways such as with crosswinds.

Then when you pull the boat out of the water at the launch ramp, you just pull those side rails out again to where they would "lock" into position.

Just a thought. Not sure how legal that is with just side frame rails and no horizontal piece. I'm guessing as long as you have the lights and license plate with running lamps somewhere underneath, it's legal.

Then there is the issue of strengthened hold down strap locations. May be too complicated but an idea nonetheless. Hmmm.



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[Big Block Power]

I'm not a structural engineer by any means. Lol
So is all of this extra metal structural. Add the supports to the main outside frame. I can't tell if they're are any supports on the inside pieces. If not all good. Then just add a extention to the end of the trailer with a beam running to the other side and pin it in place. I think that would work.

[slideruleracer]

I'll chime in - because I have an opinion - but take my suggestions with a grain of salt as I don't have any experience first hand with forward drives at all.

I think what you're proposing is eminently reasonable. Any half talented local welding/fab shop should be able to do what you're asking for - certainly up to the first crossbar on the extensions. To cut in past that is a little more work, but by no means impossible.

I would suggest the addition of side guide-ons, though. I find it MUCH easier to line myself up with my trailer now that I've added those and the last second hard right/left turns tend to be a thing of the past. Perhaps a combination of the side guides with the rear most section of the rails that can pivot away would eliminate 98% of the contact probability.

What does the front bow stop look like?

[slideruleracer]

As I look at the trailer design, a simpler approach might just be to chamfer the 'entrance' of the drive rail area. That would make those lower protection bars still work properly when you're backing down a ramp and you'd just need to make the 'chamfer' large enough that the drive can't reach it (or is much less likely to reach it). I'll try to sketch it up later.

[akorcovelos]

Do you usually trim the drive full down like that? Would it give you more clearance with it tucked up fully? If it were my trailer I’d just have a shop remove everything rear of the bunk mounts and leave it all open. Have you ever hit anything with your trailer where that material would have helped?

Also, the exhaust on the example boat is driving my OCD nuts.

[NE Zack]

Drive in pic is trimmed fully up

As far as exhaust in pics I am assuming the boat has staggered mounted engines which is why the exhaust is the way it is.
However I fully understand OCD and it bothers me know that you spotted it.

[Tuscany]

I'm not a structural engineer by any means. Lol
So is all of this extra metal structural. Add the supports to the main outside frame. I can't tell if they're are any supports on the inside pieces. If not all good. Then just add a extention to the end of the trailer with a beam running to the other side and pin it in place. I think that would work.

BB, I think your idea is exactly what I would do. I just don’t know if steel tubing is strong enough to handle the twist flex without cracking welds. I would probably reinforce the mains with C-channel in the rear.

[NautiGirl]

I'm not a structural engineer by any means. Lol
So is all of this extra metal structural. Add the supports to the main outside frame. I can't tell if they're are any supports on the inside pieces. If not all good. Then just add a extention to the end of the trailer with a beam running to the other side and pin it in place. I think that would work.

BB, I think your idea is exactly what I would do. I just don’t know if steel tubing is strong enough to handle the twist flex without cracking welds. I would probably reinforce the mains with C-channel in the rear.

You figured out what BBP Wanted to do based on those red Microsoft Paint circles?

[Big Block Power]

I'm not a structural engineer by any means. Lol
So is all of this extra metal structural. Add the supports to the main outside frame. I can't tell if they're are any supports on the inside pieces. If not all good. Then just add a extention to the end of the trailer with a beam running to the other side and pin it in place. I think that would work.

BB, I think your idea is exactly what I would do. I just don’t know if steel tubing is strong enough to handle the twist flex without cracking welds. I would probably reinforce the mains with C-channel in the rear.

Yep kind of like this extra jet ski hitch.

[Big Block Power]

I'm not a structural engineer by any means. Lol
So is all of this extra metal structural. Add the supports to the main outside frame. I can't tell if they're are any supports on the inside pieces. If not all good. Then just add a extention to the end of the trailer with a beam running to the other side and pin it in place. I think that would work.

BB, I think your idea is exactly what I would do. I just don’t know if steel tubing is strong enough to handle the twist flex without cracking welds. I would probably reinforce the mains with C-channel in the rear.

You figured out what BBP Wanted to do based on those red Microsoft Paint circles?

What you talking about Elvis. T and I are on the same page.