Help with Volvo FWD winterizing process

[Fun2Fish]

Well all I can say is.... Folks it's time to check your insurance policy to see what it states about freeze damage coverage.

.......and that's why I would let your dealer take care of it. If something were to freeze, it's totally on them..

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

Do happen to know if the Harbor fogs as part of the process?

[ajcampen]

.......and that's why I would let your dealer take care of it. If something were to freeze, it's totally on them..

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

I can do this myself all day long but I 100% agree with tgrace. Cheap insurance. Mines $150.00

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

[tgrace98]

.......and that's why I would let your dealer take care of it. If something were to freeze, it's totally on them..

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

Do happen to know if the Harbor fogs as part of the process?

I’m not sure since this is my first season there.

[Big Block Power]

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

I can do this myself all day long but I 100% agree with tgrace. Cheap insurance. Mines $150.00

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

[cmattj]

I can do this myself all day long but I 100% agree with tgrace. Cheap insurance. Mines $150.00

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

[Big Block Power]

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

Yea so take some of that AJ

[NE Zack]

Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

[Tuscany]

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

See that BB, Matt’s rubbing that nice winter weather in our face. I can’t bear the thought of snow and 0 degree temps coming.

[Tuscany]

Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

Yeah, That sounds like work.. . I’m waaaay too lazy fo all dat..

[NE Zack]

Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

Yeah, That sounds like work.. . I’m waaaay too lazy fo all dat..

My guess is most dealers are waaaay too lazy fo all dat.. as well which is why i prefer to do all my own maintenance.

[Tuscany]

I get your issue. You sound like old me.
I remember my first brand new 1999 Ford Super Duty. It needed a new torque converter due to a recall. I imagined things getting done poorly with grease everywhere, and yanking the tranny out of my new truck was making me lose sleep.
Well, they did a great job. I'm over worrying about that stuff anymore. I just make it clear in a respectful was what I expect in order to avoid any "miscommunication".
My boat goes in for a new Bimini next week. I'll tell them the same thing. No shoes on board, don't be standing on my trailer fenders, no customer tours, and leave it cleaner than when I brought it in, and we'll remain good friends and loyal customers.


If a dealer is waaay to lazy, then they pay the bill.. you still sleep soundly on a -10 degree night without a worry in the world.

[ajcampen]

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

Yea so take some of that AJ

the sewer crew at it again

[ajcampen]

Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

Yeah, That sounds like work.. . I’m waaaay too lazy fo all dat..

My guess is most dealers are waaaay too lazy fo all dat.. as well which is why i prefer to do all my own maintenance.

I don't understand step 11. Why do that instead of hooking up fuel line to a mix of oil/gas?
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.

[BobRae99]

Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

As long as you are talking to the factory and following their direction, I think you are fine. I just get nervous (for you) when you are soliciting service opinions for an expensive boat on a forum of guys who may or may not know the ins and outs of your particular boat. Good luck.

[Big Block Power]

Zack I agree you might be the fwd specialist here. And BobRae is 100%correct. I wouldn't listen to us.
So I'll give you my 2 cents on the fuel filter /fogging . Remove it drain some gas and add 2 stroke oil to it let the engine suck it in and shut the engine off its fogged. No need to remove good spark plugs with the chance of cracking them. Unless of course the Volvo manual says not to do that because of the cats. I don't have them. Then change the fuel filter.