Cobalt Boats Forum

Pretty sure its an injector failure on #5. Tell me how I know. Catalytic convertor plus aluminum exhaust manifold = bad news. Fighting VP on a major issue around this. Have you ever had other issues like exhaust overheat or O2 sensor failures? To be certain you may want a VP mechanic put a Vodia on ...

Sold

Boat is in excellent shape but unfortunately needs a new engine
Planning on installing a new VP350-CE DP or willing to sell as is giving new owner an option to upgrade to a VP-380

One of the last R5's

Wake Board Arch w/Sun Shade and 4 speakers
Trim Tabs
Anchor Windlass
Bow & Cockpit Tonneau Covers ...

Bad relay that powers up the display. Common problem. The only issue is there are maybe 2-3 of these relays behind the dash and Cobalt is useless in telling you which one powers the displays. Where mine is located may not be where yours is.

Posting on an old thread but maybe others have experienced the same issue. It appears an issue 5 years ago came back to bite me. Evidently that overheat did some initial damage to the exhaust system and over time worsened to the point that they began to leak and cause injector failures. My theory is ...

When using dielectric grease, first assemble and tighten the connection dry (metal to metal). Then apply a light coat over the connection.

Fisher Canvas http://fishercanvas.com/index-new.asp They may already have a template. Mine covers from bow to swim platform with zipper access to the inside

Go with the R5 or R6. No one regrets going larger. And if concerned about the chop I would go with the deep V R5 over the much flatter R6.

I think the effort far outweighs the benefit. I boat on the coast and if you have that much water coming over the bow. you probably have more important concerns. Self draining cockpits make sense on center consoles and open decks where they are exposed to the environment. But with BR's that are ...

Volvo keeps that information close to their chest. Maybe a prop shop might beable to provide some info. But if your engine is running at max RPM, then I would think you have the right setup. Going larger will most likely load the engine and smaller will over rev the engine

I love the stuff. It was part of the care package I received when I purchased my 2002 206. Used it every fall until I sold the boat in 2021. Guy that bought the boat could not believe the condition of the engine. I use it to this day as part of the winter storage.

True, but look in the engine compartment of a salt water used inboard. Everything in there will exhibit corrosion sooner or later; fire ext and its base, battery trays, hose clamps, etc. Much less of an issue with outboards.

And the convenience of an inboard, in fresh water, is to me noticeable ...

We just had same issue with our `20 R7. We replaced the blue sea automatic charging relay (ACR) box mounted behind the battery switch. It automatically adjusts voltage between the 2 batteries. $65 and easy to swap out . I swapped the relay out prior to this and still had displays going out and ...

JimGilly wrote: Tue Aug 05, 2025 3:02 pm Simple:

Salt water: outboards

Fresh water: inboard

Never quite understood that thought. Been boating in SW all my life and won't buy a boat not FW cooled.

I'll give that a shot. Going to tie both amp and head unit to the ground terminal of the battery and if that doesn't work, bring the head unit ground to the amp.