Cobaltchat.com

Has anyone taken the time to list all steps required to properly winterize a newer R5 Surf (2020) with the volvo quick drain? I also see a lot of debate on whether or not fogging is necessary or not on new engines. I live in Atlanta Georgia so we don't see long, deep freezing winters. Staying below freezing for 24 hours rarely, if ever happens.

So far I know I'll do the following:
- top gas tank and add fuel stabilizer
- run engine for a few minutes
- change oil (100hr service)
- drain engine using quick drain
- remove batteries (hopefully they are easy to access - this is my first winter) and store in garage
- drain ballast tanks. I suspect we need to do more than just use the drain feature on the Garmin glass.
- I have not used bathroom so assume nothing here

Any help or guidance would be appreciated!

Find out if you should run up to operating temp before you hit the quick drain

You will want to run it more than a few minutes to get the stabil to go through the system. Also the oil won't get warm that fast if your changing your own oil. I run mine at least 15 minutes. Feel the oil filter housing.
Also if it was me I would put water safe antifreeze in the ballast tanks and drain them. You will always have water in them and the lines. Unless you can blow out the lines. Just because you didn't use the toilet that doesn't mean the dealer didn't test it. Plus water Prob got pushed to it. I would still winterize it.

Big Block Power wrote: Mon Oct 19, 2020 9:32 pm You will want to run it more than a few minutes to get the stabil to go through the system. Also the oil won't get warm that fast if your changing your own oil. I run mine at least 15 minutes. Feel the oil filter housing.
Also if it was me I would put water safe antifreeze in the ballast tanks and drain them. You will always have water in them and the lines. Unless you can blow out the lines. Just because you didn't use the toilet that doesn't mean the dealer didn't test it. Plus water Prob got pushed to it. I would still winterize it.

Thanks so much for the advice!

Big Block Power wrote: Mon Oct 19, 2020 9:32 pm You will want to run it more than a few minutes to get the stabil to go through the system. Also the oil won't get warm that fast if your changing your own oil. I run mine at least 15 minutes. Feel the oil filter housing.
Also if it was me I would put water safe antifreeze in the ballast tanks and drain them. You will always have water in them and the lines. Unless you can blow out the lines. Just because you didn't use the toilet that doesn't mean the dealer didn't test it. Plus water Prob got pushed to it. I would still winterize it.

Any suggestions for adding the antifreeze? Just pop the top on the tanks (front one requires unscrewing floor) or add it from the bottom of the boat where it draws in water to ensure all lines are safe?

Again, I live in GA where it doesn’t have any deep freezes.

HairyGorilla wrote: Mon Nov 16, 2020 9:56 am

Big Block Power wrote: Mon Oct 19, 2020 9:32 pm You will want to run it more than a few minutes to get the stabil to go through the system. Also the oil won't get warm that fast if your changing your own oil. I run mine at least 15 minutes. Feel the oil filter housing.
Also if it was me I would put water safe antifreeze in the ballast tanks and drain them. You will always have water in them and the lines. Unless you can blow out the lines. Just because you didn't use the toilet that doesn't mean the dealer didn't test it. Plus water Prob got pushed to it. I would still winterize it.

Any suggestions for adding the antifreeze? Just pop the top on the tanks (front one requires unscrewing floor) or add it from the bottom of the boat where it draws in water to ensure all lines are safe?

Again, I live in GA where it doesn’t have any deep freezes.

If it was mine I would suck it in through the intake. But I'm no expert on these by far.

Big Block Power wrote: Mon Nov 16, 2020 12:16 pm

HairyGorilla wrote: Mon Nov 16, 2020 9:56 am

Big Block Power wrote: Mon Oct 19, 2020 9:32 pm You will want to run it more than a few minutes to get the stabil to go through the system. Also the oil won't get warm that fast if your changing your own oil. I run mine at least 15 minutes. Feel the oil filter housing.
Also if it was me I would put water safe antifreeze in the ballast tanks and drain them. You will always have water in them and the lines. Unless you can blow out the lines. Just because you didn't use the toilet that doesn't mean the dealer didn't test it. Plus water Prob got pushed to it. I would still winterize it.

Any suggestions for adding the antifreeze? Just pop the top on the tanks (front one requires unscrewing floor) or add it from the bottom of the boat where it draws in water to ensure all lines are safe?

Again, I live in GA where it doesn’t have any deep freezes.

If it was mine I would suck it in through the intake. But I'm no expert on these by far.

I reviewed and it appears the same pump pulls in and pushes out the water. I poured close to a gallon of antifreeze into each tank from the top then turned on the drain for 5-10 seconds. Filled the line and left some in tank. Fingers crossed.

PS Cobalt really, really hid the batteries deep in the engine bay Made for a fun time being 6’2”.

You left off pulling the drive, checking alignment and changing gear oil which also needs to be done annually.

Every other year change impeller.

I also live in Atlanta and had the dealer perform the winterization for this year. But after watching the Volvo Quick Drain video (youtube.com/watch?v=aim1dkRzZjw) I'm wondering if I can boat year-round and use the Quick Drain in advance of any freezing weather. Any suggestions?

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My personal opinion is if you don't have a shop manual with the full winterizing procedure you should take it to a dealer. Cracked ballast tanks/fittings, toilet fittings, etc aren't cheap to replace/repair. I like wrenching like the next guy (I did a frame off restoration of my 1976 Triumph TR6 using a shop manual), but it seems with a $170,000 boat, you should know what you are doing and I think learning on a forum might not be the best way. Just my $0.02 worth.

BobRae99 wrote: Wed Dec 23, 2020 9:55 am My personal opinion is if you don't have a shop manual with the full winterizing procedure you should take it to a dealer. Cracked ballast tanks/fittings, toilet fittings, etc aren't cheap to replace/repair. I like wrenching like the next guy (I did a frame off restoration of my 1976 Triumph TR6 using a shop manual), but it seems with a $170,000 boat, you should know what you are doing and I think learning on a forum might not be the best way. Just my $0.02 worth.

What? I started at a holiday Inn last night! I know what I'm doing
I think!

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Dec 23, 2020 1:27 pm

BobRae99 wrote: Wed Dec 23, 2020 9:55 am My personal opinion is if you don't have a shop manual with the full winterizing procedure you should take it to a dealer. Cracked ballast tanks/fittings, toilet fittings, etc aren't cheap to replace/repair. I like wrenching like the next guy (I did a frame off restoration of my 1976 Triumph TR6 using a shop manual), but it seems with a $170,000 boat, you should know what you are doing and I think learning on a forum might not be the best way. Just my $0.02 worth.

What? I started at a holiday Inn last night! I know what I'm doing
I think!

Did you winterize their toilets yet?

BobRae99 wrote: Thu Dec 24, 2020 3:35 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Dec 23, 2020 1:27 pm

BobRae99 wrote: Wed Dec 23, 2020 9:55 am My personal opinion is if you don't have a shop manual with the full winterizing procedure you should take it to a dealer. Cracked ballast tanks/fittings, toilet fittings, etc aren't cheap to replace/repair. I like wrenching like the next guy (I did a frame off restoration of my 1976 Triumph TR6 using a shop manual), but it seems with a $170,000 boat, you should know what you are doing and I think learning on a forum might not be the best way. Just my $0.02 worth.

What? I started at a holiday Inn last night! I know what I'm doing
I think!

Did you winterize their toilets yet?

Yep a gal in each one. Or 4 liters

HairyGorilla wrote: Mon Dec 14, 2020 9:08 pm PS Cobalt really, really hid the batteries deep in the engine bay Made for a fun time being 6’2”.

Hah - I just pulled the batteries from our R5 (yeah, a bit late) - Deep socket 7/16 made all the difference. First try was with a non-ratcheting open ended wrench. Would have taken forever to get those lock nuts off the battery trays.

BTW - also in GA - Lanier.