Cobaltchat.com

iboatmon wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:43 pm IMG_0608.JPGIMG_0090 - Copy.jpgIMG_0086 - Copy.JPG
I promised I would post some pictures as soon as I took delivery of my new (to me) Cobalt 273.

Here are a few if my questions.

1. Where does the water from the sinks drain to... the bilge, overboard,or the wast water tank?

2. When I used the windlass for the first time, the line kinked and the windlass would just turn without taking in line. What is the best way to fix this?

3. My boat is documented with the USCG. Are there any documented vessels out there and would you recommend keeping it or registering with the state? If there are documented vessels similar to mine on the forum, where did you place your Certificate Number inside the boat?

Thanks!

iboatmon wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:43 pm IMG_0608.JPGIMG_0090 - Copy.jpgIMG_0086 - Copy.JPG
I promised I would post some pictures as soon as I took delivery of my new (to me) Cobalt 273.

Here are a few if my questions.

1. Where does the water from the sinks drain to... the bilge, overboard,or the wast water tank?

2. When I used the windlass for the first time, the line kinked and the windlass would just turn without taking in line. What is the best way to fix this?

3. My boat is documented with the USCG. Are there any documented vessels out there and would you recommend keeping it or registering with the state? If there are documented vessels similar to mine on the forum, where did you place your Certificate Number inside the boat?

Thanks!

CaptainTom wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:30 pm That's my old boat! She looks really good in her new berth. I'm so glad you got her and are on the forum posting pictures. I always thought she would look good in Tahoe.

1. They do drain overboard. Run them and watch for the water to come overboard. The cockpit floor drains drain in to the bilge if I remember correctly.

2. We never used the windlass. I was afraid of not being able to retrieve it (our lake has trees at the bottom and I lost an anchor to those trees on a different boat once). I did polish the anchor a few times. When we did our boat orientation, I remember learning that if the windlass was slipping, that the windlass clutch needed to be tightened. I think you put your palm on the top and turn it the head but I would definitely research the issue some more before doing that. There might be a different issue as well. I know that you need to take the tension of the line before running the windlass. It's not like a winch on a jeep.

3. As you know, we never installed the USCG numbers to the hull. I was hesitant to drill any holes in the boat, so I really dragged my feet doing that but always had the plaque with the number in the boat. I was going to put it in the bilge somewhere. We registered it with the USCG rather than in Texas because I didn't want to put the Texas letters on the boat. You don't avoid sales tax in Texas by documenting with the USCG.

tgrace98 wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:26 pm

Welcome aboard! Love your boat and would love to see some interior pics.

I can’t answer the first 2 but I can answer number 3.

I have mine registered through the USCG and I did it for 2 reasons. Sales tax was a lot cheaper going USCG registration. It was about 30% cheaper for me. And I didn’t want numbers on my boat. I mounted the certification number on the starboard side in the engine compartment

cmattj wrote: Mon Jul 02, 2018 12:02 am
Welcome from the Delta.

Windlass chain to rope. As 10-15 of chain to the anchor is standard usually and at that point they chatter but should not slip or kink as long as you aren't using the windlass to pull the boat towards your anchorage.

But easy to set the clutch. First side tie to a dock where we can release it and capture it on the dock.

Let out 30-40 feet with someone guiding it to the dock. That will give you space to insure the windlass compartment isn't tangled up with rope.

Clutch. As you retrieve the rope use 3 seconds then pause to insure is dropping in the well centered, or close to it.

Clutches can loose grip overtime and since the previous owner never used it she will need service and cleaning. There is two tools that have torx heads on them. One is 3 feet long and usually in your floor locker by the Bimini poles. It's used if the windlass fails and you cal loosen the clutch to manually retrieve.
The short adjustment wrench will have the same torx fitting. You can release the anchor clutch at the windlass as it outboard with this tool and it the tool to tighten also

Almost like setting the drag in a fishing pole as your windlass is designed to retrieve the anchor weight. Not pull the boat. Loosen then tighten the clutch with the torx. That will allow any debris to fall away.
Now let's retrieve it up and slowly bump it in.
Secure the chain to the cable test her or lock the windlass and your secure.

Always secure the rope or chain when anchored as the tugging will slip the clutch and loosen it.

Sheesh then we get to start over.haha. Once there set you'll never want a normal anchor.

USCG.

Mine is that way. One time use tax ( yes they find you) but registration is cheap and no crooked cf numbers.
The legal size decal for your numbers are fine Under your hatch so they are visible to a agent who may be boarding your boat. You just open your engine hatch.. he reads them and you close your hatch.
Do not drill holes and mount that pesky plaque.

That's a beauty and we are all wanting some interior pics!! Congrats