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I had seen the second one but not the first one. Not sure when I will get the time to complete the project but hope to do so before Memorial Day. Work travel keeps me busy this time of the year so just trying to make sure I have all the material I need for when I get the time.

I'm sorry I'm not more help. Going off memory, I think I used #4 wire between the batteries, #14 wire for the ground and a 75 amp circuit breaker.

Bfun220 no worries. Thanks for the info.

Hi,

This thread has been REALLY helpful to me, thanks! I have been looking at the Blue Sea ACR kit at West Marine: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea ... m--8646275.

One of the reviews says "The problem is that the little brain box of this thing draws enough current, even though everything else is shut off, to drain a new fully charged Group 31 battery in about a month. It does warn of this and says that you may install a special switch to shut the brain box off completely but who wants to have to remember another switch."

I have to agree, if this is true, since I'm hoping to simplify my current standard dual battery setup - not add more switches. Has anyone had a problem with this Blue Sea setup?

Thanks again,
G

I have not had any issues with mine Blue Sea ARC setup.

Photo_G wrote: Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:53 pm Hi,

This thread has been REALLY helpful to me, thanks! I have been looking at the Blue Sea ACR kit at West Marine: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea ... m--8646275.

One of the reviews says "The problem is that the little brain box of this thing draws enough current, even though everything else is shut off, to drain a new fully charged Group 31 battery in about a month. It does warn of this and says that you may install a special switch to shut the brain box off completely but who wants to have to remember another switch."

I have to agree, if this is true, since I'm hoping to simplify my current standard dual battery setup - not add more switches. Has anyone had a problem with this Blue Sea setup?

Thanks again,
G

I just went though this with getting dual batteries and a switch installed. I had the marina do it when I had them work on other issues, and they were very reasonable.

They gave me the option of the new setup with the ACS box, or go old school with the dual switch without the ACS circuit. The head mechanic actually has seen issues with the ACS running down batteries, but it didn't sound super serious. He said "without question he would go without the ACS if it was his boat". That means something since the ACS setup was more costly.

As I am a trailer boater, I chose to go without the ACS and simply switch which battery I use from day to day. I am happy with the setup and can always add the ACS box in the future if I want. I like knowing when i switch to off, its actually cut off.

JTinMO wrote: Sun Aug 12, 2018 9:18 pm As I am a trailer boater, I chose to go without the ACS and simply switch which battery I use from day to day. I am happy with the setup and can always add the ACS box in the future if I want. I like knowing when i switch to off, its actually cut off.

I added circuit breaker between ACR and battery. So if/when I shut my switch off I also open the circuit breakers so there is no power to ACR.

I appreciate the feedback! It looks like the installation may be moving out of my limited skill set so, if I add this, I'll need to get a pro to do it right with an ACR circuit breaker, starter isolation, etc.

Thanks again,
G

[update] I contacted Blue Sea support today (they are very helpful!) and they explained that the ACR connections can be made to the load side of the dual circuit switch (the top lugs in the installation diagrams), instead of right to the battery positive lugs (as in the diagrams). This way, when the switch is off, the ACR won't draw down the battery. The only downside is if you have a single external maintenance charger, it won't be able to get to both batteries while the switch is off (I have a dual charger directly on the posts, so no issue here). Another upside is that the jumpers between the switch and ACR can be short if you mount them close to each other but, I'm assuming, they should still have a fuse inline.

The only other downside with this system, it seems, is that the house battery would be isolated and not charged if the start battery voltage fails to raise high enough to combine them, e.g., if it has a bad cell. However, if you ran the external LED indicator to your helm, this condition would be easy to spot as a fast flash (under-voltage lockout).

G

Photo_G wrote: Mon Aug 13, 2018 1:37 pm The only other downside with this system, it seems, is that the house battery would be isolated and not charged if the start battery voltage fails to raise high enough to combine them, e.g., if it has a bad cell. However, if you ran the external LED indicator to your helm, this condition would be easy to spot as a fast flash (under-voltage lockout).

G

This is what my mechanic was explaining to me, and he has seen it happen. I'm not sure I fully understand it all, but is the point at which I said, I'm good with the old dual switch and no ACR.

He also mentioned something about the engine running but the dash not working either somehow.

My new 2016 210 has this switch. I accidentally left the switch in the on position for a week and when I next went on the boat to do so,e cleaning found the stereo wouldn’t turn on. The engine stated right away and after a few minutes there was enough charge in the B battery to run the house stuff. Pretty cool. Good to know about the parasitic drain. I’ll put a trickle charger on the boat over winter anyway, so not a problem for me.

New here
Anyone using dual bats in parallel in the number 1
And a deep cyc in the number 2?

Harry

Welcome Harry. Glad you found us. Don’t forget to go to the new members section and introduce yourself and your boat.

So, if I understand your question correctly you actually are asking about tuning 3 batteries? 2 for the starter in switch position 1 and a house battery on position 2. Correct?

Also, what is the year and middle of your boat. We like details and pics whenever possible.

Bobo87 wrote:
So, if I understand your question correctly you actually are asking about tuning 3 batteries?

Also, what is the year and middle of your boat.

Bobo glad your finally speaking Pot the Jus with me

I have a question about the ACR dual battery switch that came as an option on my 2013 273.

One time I forgot to turn the battery switch off and some how a few interior lights we left on, as well. I was away from the boat for about a week and when I returned nothing would work and the engine would not crank on start. I was new to ACR and didn't realize there was a position on the switch for "both" batteries until I revisited the owners manual. Once I selected "both" batteries, I was able to start engine started.

I understand that the system prevented both batteries from going dead, but why wasn't I able to start the engine without switching to "both" batteries?
Was it because the system cut off both batteries when they were drawn down to the low voltage threshold and there was only enough power to start the engine when both batteries were combined?