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Did you happen to share pictures of the cylinder bores with the machine shop to get an opinion on the health of that area of the engine? If the engine overheated are you able to check the deck to make sure it doesn’t need machining to make it flat? Otherwise, you might have rebuilt heads going onto a problematic block? Finally, if the machine shops also do rebuilds, maybe check to see if they put anything on the head bolt threads?

I’m enjoying following this thread, thanks for sharing.

TexasCobaltGuy wrote: Mon Apr 06, 2020 10:54 pm Worse case if I reuse the manifold and riser and it runs hot I will order new ones. Question if I use a infrared gun on the risers what should the temp be?

Was watching videos tonight on taking the chatter out of the rockers and lifters. Man there are a million ways to do that.

no, worst case is the manifolds leak internally and hydrolock your engine, at which point you replace the engine. Again, I can't stress enough, spend the money and get new manifolds and risers.

OK I found the manifolds for 289 each on ebay new volvo part 3847501 and the original 7.8" riser 3863061 for 245 also on ebay... been a long time since i bought anything on ebay... Tried the Dealership but they can't get the risers and want 400 each for manifolds... I am working on my story to the wife... Honey, these guys on the internet swear I am going to be sorry if I don't this

BTW, got a call from AJ at EnginesXtreme and everything will be ready to pickup in the morning... had to order the Intake gasket from Summit Racing so headed over there either tonight or 1st thing in the morning to pick up the Fel-Pro Perforamnce Marine intake gasket FEL-17320 which fits the GM 350 5.7l as well I ordered Loctite RTV 598 black silicone gasket maker as well as the Permatex thread sealant with PTFE.

Hopefully the head gaskets come in by Friday!

I used this on the intake gasket and the intake gasket surface. It helped to hold the intake gasket in place also.
Matt and akro what did you guys use?
Also if you can get a buddy to help you install the heads and the intake that will help. They are heavy. 4 hands are better than 2.

Big Block Power wrote: Tue Apr 07, 2020 5:36 pm I used this on the intake gasket and the intake gasket surface. It helped to hold the intake gasket in place also.
Matt and akro what did you guys use?
Also if you can get a buddy to help you install the heads and the intake that will help. They are heavy. 4 hands are better than 2.

Yes as BB said off is easy. Dropping them on and finding dowls can be tricking and you don’t want to punch a head gasket.
Intake tack is a great idea like BB showed.

If your using silicon for the intake “ end rails” in place of the gaskets ( I only use Sealant and no gasket). Here’s a tip.
Use a pointed center punch along the cast iron block end rails to put a dimple ever 1/2 Inch before your run a bead of silicon. ( intake ends too.
This will help it grip the silicon to surfaces. Allow the sealant to set up for 5-10 minutes before you set the intake.

That's right I forgot that they stopped using those end seals. Good tip on the dimples.

This is what I was planning to use for the ends of the intake. Loctite RTV 598 black silicone gasket maker

Can you elaborate on this. ”pointed center punch along the cast iron block end rails(Is this the front and end of the intake area on the block?) to put a dimple ever 1/2 Inch before your run a bead of silicon. intake ends too (you mean on the underside of the intake?).”

TexasCobaltGuy wrote: Tue Apr 07, 2020 7:31 pm This is what I was planning to use for the ends of the intake. Loctite RTV 598 black silicone gasket maker

Can you elaborate on this. ”pointed center punch along the cast iron block end rails(Is this the front and end of the intake area on the block?) to put a dimple ever 1/2 Inch before your run a bead of silicon. intake ends too (you mean on the underside of the intake?).”

Yes.
As early GM blocks had openings along the end rails for rubber gaskets with nubs. That has been long gone.
I did a poor iPhone example of where you punch in the center.
It’s raises a burr and acts as grip so the RTV will bite. Do the intake as well.
Once the intake is set wet your finger and lightly run the edge of the sealant.
Like caulking a bathroom. Lol.

Big Block Power wrote: Tue Apr 07, 2020 5:36 pm I used this on the intake gasket and the intake gasket surface. It helped to hold the intake gasket in place also.
Matt and akro what did you guys use?
Also if you can get a buddy to help you install the heads and the intake that will help. They are heavy. 4 hands are better than 2.

yup, these guys got you set. I use the copper spray on the head gaskets and the same RTV on the intake, never done the dimple thing though. Be careful with the copper spray, that stuff is STICKY and gets on everything. I usually spray the gaskets outside the boat and hand them to a helper in the boat to keep over spray from getting on everything.

I've never sprayed anything on a head gasket though. Yes used the copper also. Yes don't spray in the boat. Good one. Lol

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2020 12:52 pm I've never sprayed anything on a head gasket though. Yes used the copper also. Yes don't spray in the boat. Good one. Lol

It's just a habit from building race motors. I usually fire ring the block then use a stock gasket and copper spray so if things go wrong under boost the gasket still fails instead of grenading the whole motor. It also helps keep the gasket in place when setting heads on.

akorcovelos wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:49 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2020 12:52 pm I've never sprayed anything on a head gasket though. Yes used the copper also. Yes don't spray in the boat. Good one. Lol

It's just a habit from building race motors. I usually fire ring the block then use a stock gasket and copper spray so if things go wrong under boost the gasket still fails instead of grenading the whole motor. It also helps keep the gasket in place when setting heads on.

Just watched a vid on that. I never built engines with a 1000 hp or more. Pretty cool stuff. That's you and Matt. I worked at a dealership doing 2.8,3.1,3.8,4.3,5.3,5.7's in my sleep. I love watching and sing stuff like that. I'm in!!!

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:20 pm

akorcovelos wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:49 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2020 12:52 pm I've never sprayed anything on a head gasket though. Yes used the copper also. Yes don't spray in the boat. Good one. Lol

It's just a habit from building race motors. I usually fire ring the block then use a stock gasket and copper spray so if things go wrong under boost the gasket still fails instead of grenading the whole motor. It also helps keep the gasket in place when setting heads on.

Just watched a vid on that. I never built engines with a 1000 hp or more. Pretty cool stuff. That's you and Matt. I worked at a dealership doing 2.8,3.1,3.8,4.3,5.3,5.7's in my sleep. I love watching and sing stuff like that. I'm in!!!

yeah, in my case it's mostly to allow some margin for error when tuning, lol. With an MLS gasket I'd be replacing pistons on the regular!

Work has got in the way of elbow grease progress this week.

Here is my progress on the 1/3/5/7 side of the block. Wife’s birthday today so had to stop early tonight.

I got WD40 and brake cleaner but break cleaner didn’t help. So WD40 and scrubbing with a non-scratch scotch pad and scraping with a gasket scraper.

So far so good but lots of work yet to do.