1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Finally decided on the table setup for our 232. Side mount arm, so that there's no floor flanges. One mount flange in the rear seating area. And going to put a second mount flange in the bow searing area, that way we can use the table in either place. And got this table in particular so that it has the high lip to keep things from falling off and also very deep cupholders. Will hopefully have time to get the flanges mounted and take photos installed later this week
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Got it mounted. It is the best table we have had in any boat so far. The big lip on the edges and the deep oversized cupholders make it perfect. Fits even the big fat yeti mugs. And not having a hole in the floor that catches the kids goes is great too.
Here are all the parts used:
* side mount leg including flange here.
* table top here:
* table flange here:
* extra mount flange here:
Here are all the parts used:
* side mount leg including flange here.
* table top here:
* table flange here:
* extra mount flange here:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- thunder550
- Vice Admiral

- Posts: 2246
- Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:16 pm
- Location: Scottsdale, AZ
- Contact:
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Looks great! Nice work.
1995 Cobalt 252 - 502 Mag EFI - Bravo 1 - 21" Revolution 4
- AsLan7
- Fleet Admiral

- Posts: 11456
- Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:58 am
- Location: Erie PA
- Been thanked: 1 time
- Contact:
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
+1...awesome work & documentation!
2002 Cobalt 262
&
2005 Cobalt 263
496 MagHO
(sold )
Erie, PA
Currently boatless (for now)
will fly for food
(CChat moderator)
&
2005 Cobalt 263
496 MagHO
(sold )
Erie, PA
Currently boatless (for now)
will fly for food
(CChat moderator)
- Big Block Power
- Fleet Admiral

- Posts: 17930
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 8:05 pm
- Location: Neenah,Wi
- Contact:
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Looks good. She looks tight to get the base into the base. Where the cushion of the seat is. Great upgrade
03Cobalt220 8.1gxi DP
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Has just enough space. Placed it as high as I could and triple checked before drilling holesBig Block Power wrote: Wed Aug 19, 2020 7:34 pm Looks good. She looks tight to get the base into the base. Where the cushion of the seat is. Great upgrade
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Sorry to bring up an old thread but too much good info in here. I was looking up the striker 4 that you installed. I was looking at them and there seems to be many different options now with different types of transducers. Do you recall what you had in yours? Also I notice you were able to see voltage and a few other pids on the screen. I was thinking I could possibly remove the voltage gauge to free up some space on the dash to mount it similar to the way you have it.baktasht wrote: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:41 pm Took the boat out today to make sure everything worked as planned. Everything's functioning correctly. And I am very impressed with the Garmin striker 4. Functions far beyond my expectations for such an inexpensive unit. I would highly recommend that everybody upgrade to one from the factory cobalt depth and temperature gauges.
IMG_20200427_190114.jpg
IMG_20200427_182613.jpg
1995 252 7.4L 300HP
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
For sure!! Always happy to help. Here is the exact Garmin Striker4 package that I purchased and installed. Looks like it's on sale for $119 on amazon right now: https://amzn.to/3O2VBt5sming250r wrote: Tue Jun 14, 2022 10:42 pmSorry to bring up an old thread but too much good info in here. I was looking up the striker 4 that you installed. I was looking at them and there seems to be many different options now with different types of transducers. Do you recall what you had in yours? Also I notice you were able to see voltage and a few other pids on the screen. I was thinking I could possibly remove the voltage gauge to free up some space on the dash to mount it similar to the way you have it.baktasht wrote: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:41 pm Took the boat out today to make sure everything worked as planned. Everything's functioning correctly. And I am very impressed with the Garmin striker 4. Functions far beyond my expectations for such an inexpensive unit. I would highly recommend that everybody upgrade to one from the factory cobalt depth and temperature gauges.
IMG_20200427_190114.jpg
IMG_20200427_182613.jpg
Yup, it showed the voltage with more accuracy than the factory analog gauge. Also showed GPS speed fairly accurately, along with water temp and depth.
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Hey thanks for the follow up. I saw on your 292 it looked like you had possibly used some starboard to mount the transducer to the transom. Did you use 5200 for that? Any special prep to make that permanent?
Been enjoying watching your YouTube channel as well!

Been enjoying watching your YouTube channel as well!
1995 252 7.4L 300HP
Re: 1999 Cobalt 232 restoration
Thanks for watching! I love making those videos, always nice to see they're useful to others.sming250r wrote: Thu Jun 16, 2022 11:06 pm Hey thanks for the follow up. I saw on your 292 it looked like you had possibly used some starboard to mount the transducer to the transom. Did you use 5200 for that? Any special prep to make that permanent?
Been enjoying watching your YouTube channel as well!![]()
For the transducer, you mount directly to the fiberglass/gelcoat on the transom. The transducer will come with a bracket and a guideline with measurements of where to mount it. Use some 4200 for mounting, don't use 5200. 5200 is more for mounting permanent things, or things that will see force on them, such as trim tabs. 4200 will seal up just as well but be removable down the line for replacement.
Main things I'd suggest, 1) measure twice, drill once.... and 2) ALWAYS use a countersink after drilling to avoid any gelcoat cracking, and 3) use 4200 in the screw holes before putting the screw in, and also put some on the screw threads before putting it in.
There's probably a hundred different ways/opinions on the right way, this is just what I do.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


