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The spark screen on a marine alternator is the flame arrestor (unless it's a sealed unit.) That there was a 3-4" flame might mean that someone installed an automotive alternator, and almost made you go "BOOM!!!"

In addition to being ignition protected, marine alternators are (among other things) better insulated and cooled, and are corrosion resistant.

Assuming that yours is not completely fried, and is in fact a marinized, an "alternative" to new is rebuilt.

BTW, the last year for the DV was '86. So you have either a pre-'87 boat or a BR.

Mine is a late 86.. but from DMV perspective it’s an ‘87.. go figure

Thanks for the info!

Do any of you guys have any suggestions on what to look for when buying a new marine battery for this boat? I don’t have tons of marine stores near me, but do you have the usual assortment of big box stores…

I just don’t know if a marine battery is a marine battery is a marine battery so to speak

Marine batteries come in generally 3 types....a starting battery; a deep cycle battery and combination batteries. A starting battery gives you the power needed to turn the motor over to start it. It does not last long if you have to crank the motor over to get it started. A deep cycle battery is mostly used for powering 12 volt accessories in your boat like a stereo an amp. On larger boats they we also even power a fridge and a bender. They can be discharged quite deeply and recharged many times. On larger boats they are often called House Batteries and wired in parallel to provide more storage. Lastly the combination battery does a bit of both of the above....just not as efficiently as the individual ones. I am talking about the standard flooded, acid-type. You can also find sealed batteries for considerably more money.

If you have one battery in your DV18 a single combination battery would work well....2, with a battery switch, would be better. That is what I have in my 1985 23'. You should be able to find one (or 3) at a Walmart, Costco or Sam's Club if you don't have a West Marine close by. Also most marine repair shops sell batteries and could help you find the right one.
Shawn

Thanks Shawn! I've got just a single battery connected to a battery switch -- I'm good on that part anyway. We do have West Marine but it's about 90 minutes away, however I do frequently head that direction and could pick one up next time I'm down that way.

I was able to order an alternator today online from a marine place.. My local boat shop wanted just over $250 for one instead of my online one for $90+shipping. As much as I like supporting local businesses, that was too big a difference for me to swallow. Anyway, soon.. I'll be able to get that swapped and a new battery in..

Big Block Power wrote: Sun Feb 09, 2020 7:58 am Yes it's Mechanical and of course has a stick in there. Is it a mercury 3000 shifter? What model?
Everyone I had were touchy though. But yes you should be able to push it on and just get throttle and no drive engagement.

Thanks. I think I'm going to have to take mine apart as I've never had it work -- touchy or not. Its a quicksilver of some sort.. If anyone knows the model, please let me know. I'm assuming that parts are available for it and it's not just another swap the entire unit sort of repair..? If anyone has thoughts on any tips/suggestions on taking it apart without breaking anything, please let me know. Thx!

Generally the rule of thumb is to replace the unit if it's not working. That control is 30+ years old and is critical to safe operation. You can use the opportunity to upgrade to the newer style as you'll need to replace the cables anyway.

akorcovelos wrote: Wed Feb 19, 2020 12:19 pm Generally the rule of thumb is to replace the unit if it's not working. That control is 30+ years old and is critical to safe operation. You can use the opportunity to upgrade to the newer style as you'll need to replace the cables anyway.

Ugg.. I wasn’t expecting to hear that.. hopefully it’s a fairly straightforward swap. I’m assuming the cables are a separate expense and probably custom length. Are there any particular ones to shy away from or to look for that work well and are reliable..? Thx!!

I think for starters, I'll probably just take the existing one apart and see what I can see.. I do have a question for you owners of older Cobalts from the mid 80s.. I just want to see if what mine exhibits is normal or not. What I've found with my boat is that when the engine is running and in neutral, idling without being throttled up, if I switch into forward or reverse, there's frequently a big clunk when it does so -- mostly into reverse. I'm wondering if that's normal for these older boats..? IF not, could this be a side effect of the motor/drive control that isn't behaving optimally? Just thought I'd ask. Thx!

CobaltRick wrote: Wed Feb 19, 2020 2:14 pm I think for starters, I'll probably just take the existing one apart and see what I can see.. I do have a question for you owners of older Cobalts from the mid 80s.. I just want to see if what mine exhibits is normal or not. What I've found with my boat is that when the engine is running and in neutral, idling without being throttled up, if I switch into forward or reverse, there's frequently a big clunk when it does so -- mostly into reverse. I'm wondering if that's normal for these older boats..? IF not, could this be a side effect of the motor/drive control that isn't behaving optimally? Just thought I'd ask. Thx!

You sure it's in neutral?

The clunk is different in different boats in my experience ranging from not at all to muy clunko.

Changing throttle and cables suck. Make sure it actually reaches (1). Make sure you don't put it on upside down (2), otherwise boat goes left when you turn right, etc... a friend told me that .

I'm thinking that is the normal mercury Alpha 1 drive clunk.

Thanks all!! I'm on hold til next week when the new alternator comes in the mail.. I can't do much until I get that taken care of..

CobaltRick wrote: Wed Feb 19, 2020 2:14 pm I think for starters, I'll probably just take the existing one apart and see what I can see.. I do have a question for you owners of older Cobalts from the mid 80s.. I just want to see if what mine exhibits is normal or not. What I've found with my boat is that when the engine is running and in neutral, idling without being throttled up, if I switch into forward or reverse, there's frequently a big clunk when it does so -- mostly into reverse. I'm wondering if that's normal for these older boats..? IF not, could this be a side effect of the motor/drive control that isn't behaving optimally? Just thought I'd ask. Thx!

ahhh the old alpha one CLUNK. Pretty normal, but should be even when going into reverse or forward. the V spring on the shift interrupter can get weak and probably needs replacing. cheap and easy. but final adjustments need to be made in water while under a load.

silver spring seen here also it helps to have as low an idle as possible, it will help with the shifting.

Thanks!! I’ll be looking into these things once I get her running again.. hopefully very soon!! I’ll keep things updated here with pics and whatnot.

Lockey14s wrote: Thu Feb 20, 2020 8:02 am

CobaltRick wrote: Wed Feb 19, 2020 2:14 pm I think for starters, I'll probably just take the existing one apart and see what I can see.. I do have a question for you owners of older Cobalts from the mid 80s.. I just want to see if what mine exhibits is normal or not. What I've found with my boat is that when the engine is running and in neutral, idling without being throttled up, if I switch into forward or reverse, there's frequently a big clunk when it does so -- mostly into reverse. I'm wondering if that's normal for these older boats..? IF not, could this be a side effect of the motor/drive control that isn't behaving optimally? Just thought I'd ask. Thx!

ahhh the old alpha one CLUNK. Pretty normal, but should be even when going into reverse or forward. the V spring on the shift interrupter can get weak and probably needs replacing. cheap and easy. but final adjustments need to be made in water while under a load.

silver spring seen here
IMG_9685_6d1e20b9-7ae2-4c86-ba5f-d349b875ec82_1024x1024.jpg

also it helps to have as low an idle as possible, it will help with the shifting.

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Nice post Lockey.

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