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Ok, here are the next facts!
The open cuts are all sealed with fiberglass and epoxy.

I installed a simple cable handheld in the anchor locker and a handheld with a integrated chain counter under the cockpit.

The electronic unit and the fuse box for the switch cable has been installed in the clothing locker.

The main switch for the power circuit is installed at the helmet.

Coming back to the stiffness problem of the wall between anchor room and cabin.
Due to the thick material of the front where the U-Ring is assembled we installed two stiffening struts.

Due to not having the correct swivel,we were not able to assemble the anchor completely.

My boat is 800 miles away from my home, so everything will be done finally at the beginning of July.

The I will also close the upper open space in the edges between locker Room and cabin with Kevlar fabric. Gives more stiffness to the back plate and protects the cabin against incoming water.

Last season I had a stormy way back to the Harbour and the front goes several times deep in the waves. The 10 year old rubber bulbs of the docking light burst and a lot off water was pressed in the anchor room! I don’t need that the anchor room get’s flooded and the cabin as a result, too.

I’m very happy how it works, I now have to made some changes to the construction drawings and then maybe I sell a small series if someone is interested!

Nils

Really nice job.

Yes, what a talent!

Guts and talent. Not sure I could cut the holes, let alone do all that metal work. Kudos.

Top notch work there!

ryandmartin wrote: Thu Jun 13, 2019 9:41 pm Guts and talent. Not sure I could cut the holes, let alone do all that metal work. Kudos.

Thank you! Talent was only to find quick solutions on problems you don’t have expected.

When I have every changes in the drawings it is simple for a minor talented diy enthusiast the others will find companies to do that.

I will test everything this season and and if it works perfect I will start a small series of 5 or 10 sets. We will see what will happen in future.

If you would like to see that is hell on the boats, oben the side wall at the driver seat an look between on the electric harness.

That is a catastrophe.

WOW...this is amazing...i been looking for ways to add one to my 263 and this hits the nail in the head...

So finally it works perfect and here are the last pics.

Sealord69 wrote: Wed Jul 24, 2019 2:08 pm So finally it works perfect and here are the last pics.

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Wow, such a unique color combo S69. Very sexy with the tinted windshield too. Nice job all around.

Btw, I have not seen a 263 hull with two drains midship by the water line. One drain may be for the sink although that one is usually closer to the second portal near where the front windshield starts at the waterline. To what is the other drain connected?

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I have the two drains in both sides!
The 4 holes under the table are connected to them.

On the other side you see the white connection hoses

Sealord69 wrote: Wed Jul 24, 2019 2:54 pm I have the two drains in both sides!
The 4 holes under the table are connected to them.

On the other side you see the white connection hoses

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Wow. I have never seen that set up on any of the 2000-2007 260 series. It must be on the European models only. (European regulatory requirement maybe ) All of the North American models have two (vs 4) drain holes in the cockpit that I believe drain into the bilge. Thx.
(gorgeous table too in addition to the clean install)
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Your right, in Europe we need the CE Certificate and the 263 is ranked with B-Class. that means the boat can be used up to wind to max 8bft and wave height of max. 4 Meters.

It is also an insurance topic for rent-a-boats!

This drains are called fast drainer.

In Europe these boats are mostly use at coast water and less on lakes. Our lakes aren’t so huge like yours in the states.