Cobaltchat.com

Big Block Power wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 6:23 pm Zack I agree you might be the fwd specialist here. And BobRae is 100%correct. I wouldn't listen to us.
So I'll give you my 2 cents on the fuel filter /fogging . Remove it drain some gas and add 2 stroke oil to it let the engine suck it in and shut the engine off its fogged. No need to remove good spark plugs with the chance of cracking them. Unless of course the Volvo manual says not to do that because of the cats. I don't have them. Then change the fuel filter.

I like that idea it would be much easier. Thanks BB

Another reason for performing all the work myself Is my Wife and I are taking the little guy to Disney Land on Wednesday and I can’t get away from my business to get it to the dealer. On another note I have full confidence in my dealer Valley Marine to do the job correctly.

From mercury manual.

Big Block Power wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:00 pm From mercury manual.

I was told not to run engine dry with cats....don’t do this. Make a separate fuel tank to hold oil gas mix.

Looks something like this

So my local dealer just does 3 steps on these newer engines:
With boat out of water.
1. Add fuel stabilizer
2. Hit the quick drain and let all water drain out.
3. Close quick drain and run 2 gallons of Antifreeze through engine.
Done!
Got a surf? He just makes sure the tanks are empty.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aRdt9tadiDMV8Gh5A
He also charges $75 to come to my dock to do this.
This is also TN which though does freeze isn't crazy cold, so that may change what some people do/need.
He has been doing this for over 10 years and his dad before him. Older engines require a lot more.
The 100 hour service that is usually done at end of season is a lot more but as far as just winterizing it is done.
He said that per volvo, you don't need the antifreeze if you leave the drain open, but it makes him fell better to use it. It also enables him to close the drain so his customers can just get on and go in the spring and don't have to remember to close the drain.

Norris_Boating wrote: Fri Oct 05, 2018 9:58 am So my local dealer just does 3 steps on these newer engines:
With boat out of water.
1. Add fuel stabilizer
2. Hit the quick drain and let all water drain out.
3. Close quick drain and run 2 gallons of Antifreeze through engine.
Done!
Got a surf? He just makes sure the tanks are empty.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aRdt9tadiDMV8Gh5A
He also charges $75 to come to my dock to do this.
This is also TN which though does freeze isn't crazy cold, so that may change what some people do/need.
He has been doing this for over 10 years and his dad before him. Older engines require a lot more.
The 100 hour service that is usually done at end of season is a lot more but as far as just winterizing it is done.
He said that per volvo, you don't need the antifreeze if you leave the drain open, but it makes him fell better to use it. It also enables him to close the drain so his customers can just get on and go in the spring and don't have to remember to close the drain.

Well, per Volvo, he's doing it wrong.

ajcampen wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 12:42 pm

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:13 am

Tuscany wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:50 am

Yeah, That sounds like work.. . I’m waaaay too lazy fo all dat..

My guess is most dealers are waaaay too lazy fo all dat.. as well which is why i prefer to do all my own maintenance.

I don't understand step 11. Why do that instead of hooking up fuel line to a mix of oil/gas?
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.

This. Just unhook and plug the line form the main tank and put 2 quarts of 2 cycle oil in a 5 gallon outboard fuel tank, fill tank with gas and run the outboard fuel line to the input on the water/fuel separator. Run this mix for 10 min at ~1300 rpm and shut it down. That's what the Merc manual says, worked great for me. Next year I'll probably use a smaller tank since 10 min didn't put a dent in the 5 gallons of fogging mix, so now I have 4.5 gallons on mix I can't even run through my weed wacker, lol. Bon fire fuel for spring I guess.

I always do all my own maintenance. Nobody is going to be more careful or particular than me working on my own stuff. Marina's need to get boats done FAST to keep up with end of season backlog, and humans make mistakes when they rush. Sure, the marina MAY take care of any damage should it occur, but you're still losing time on the water at a minimum, and legal action worst case.

akorcovelos wrote: Wed Oct 24, 2018 11:23 am

ajcampen wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 12:42 pm

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:13 am

My guess is most dealers are waaaay too lazy fo all dat.. as well which is why i prefer to do all my own maintenance.

I don't understand step 11. Why do that instead of hooking up fuel line to a mix of oil/gas?
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.

This. Just unhook and plug the line form the main tank and put 2 quarts of 2 cycle oil in a 5 gallon outboard fuel tank, fill tank with gas and run the outboard fuel line to the input on the water/fuel separator. Run this mix for 10 min at ~1300 rpm and shut it down. That's what the Merc manual says, worked great for me. Next year I'll probably use a smaller tank since 10 min didn't put a dent in the 5 gallons of fogging mix, so now I have 4.5 gallons on mix I can't even run through my weed wacker, lol. Bon fire fuel for spring I guess.

I always do all my own maintenance. Nobody is going to be more careful or particular than me working on my own stuff. Marina's need to get boats done FAST to keep up with end of season backlog, and humans make mistakes when they rush. Sure, the marina MAY take care of any damage should it occur, but you're still losing time on the water at a minimum, and legal action worst case.

I did what you have above. I do two boats (mine and a buddies). We combined used less than one gallon. So you only need to mix to less than a gallon. I put the remainin in my car's gas tank (who knows, a can of coke or two). read online that it was ok to do.

Are you pulling your fuel line off a barb fitting? if so i can help you replace your barb fittings with a spin on type barb fitting. I found the mfg that is used by sea ray/chaprell/etc. I bought two for $12. One in the boat and one on the secondary fuel tank. Made the switch a snap.

I'd be interested in that, got a link?

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=48&start=15

Check out my post on this thread. If interested I can track down my purchases

akorcovelos wrote: Wed Oct 24, 2018 11:53 am I'd be interested in that, got a link?

See above post I forgot to quote u

Pretty slick, I'll have to do that next fall.

akorcovelos wrote: Wed Oct 24, 2018 2:44 pm Pretty slick, I'll have to do that next fall.

https://www.amazon.com/Trident-Marine-5 ... ent+marine

I would buy two of the above .

above is the part. You'll have to track down three additional items.
1) brass plug for the part above (lowes and was less than $2
2) a new brass fitting for your fuel system for this to spin on to. I found one delivered for $8 from seatle. the male side of the spin on is an SAE fitting 3/8"
3) Mercury wanted me to use a specific loctite. I found it at granger for $8

I've been thinking about this, and I have a ton of AN fittings laying around from when I did the fuel system on my Chevelle, why couldn't I just swap the fittings to AN? Then I just need a wrench to swap lines, and can get a threaded plug for the main line when it's unhooked.

I am planning to winterize the surf tanks soon and found this thread. I appreciate the list and will do something similar. However, I was reading elsewhere (credit to Mastercraft forum). Instead of trying to pull anti-freeze in from the bottom of the boat through muffs, would it be easier to pour the antifreeze into the tanks through the overflow vents on the outside of the boat and then use the pumps to empty some of it?

smkmow wrote: Thu Sep 26, 2019 8:23 pm I am planning to winterize the surf tanks soon and found this thread. I appreciate the list and will do something similar. However, I was reading elsewhere (credit to Mastercraft forum). Instead of trying to pull anti-freeze in from the bottom of the boat through muffs, would it be easier to pour the antifreeze into the tanks through the overflow vents on the outside of the boat and then use the pumps to empty some of it?

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Hey Smkmow. Welcome to the Cobalt Chat forum. So glad you found us!

Just to be clear, when you talk about using muffs, make sure you are not confusing the engine raw water cooling system with the surf tank filling system. Engine raw water cooling is done using an impeller which sucks in water through an outdrive intake (using muffs connected to a garden hose when out of the water)....routes the water thru various coolers and waterjackets...and exits thru either thru hull exhaust or the propeller hub.

The filling of the surf tanks is done using separate pumps for each tank. These pumps also pump out the water from those tanks. I was under the impression that there are separate intakes under the boat connected to sea cocks which allow water to be pumped in and out of these tanks. Are you talking about using an inboard motor flusher connected to these intakes?

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I'm not as familiar with the Surf system and the Cobalt Owner's manual does not seem to mention much on it. NE Zack is our resident surf expert especially based upon his communications and relationship with the Cobalt staff in Neodesha. You may want to start a new thread about winterizing Surf tanks. How accessible is it to pour a small amount of RV antifreeze into those overflow vents you mentioned? Pics would be great for the forum.

Feel free to start an intro thread if you have the time. We love hearing how folks get into their precious Cobalts.

In any event, thanks for the post & welcome aboard mate!

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