Cobaltchat.com

BobRae99 wrote: Thu Jul 26, 2018 10:57 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Thu Jul 26, 2018 9:13 pm Your going to smell gas. Sorry part of it. I can't believe he didn't bring a speaker with him? Agreed I would get the pump replaced if he saw it leaking. I never heard of a leak getting better over time.

The dealer doesn’t have a speaker in stock - has to be ordered. As to the power steering pump, there is some hydraulic fluid in the bilge mixed with some water that I assume has been being pumped out by the bilge pump. It’s not too messy but it will need to be cleaned up. The reservoir was down about a cup in 7 hours. He topped it up and told me to watch it. He didn’t see any obvious leak and is wondering if it is still leaking. He did say the pump will be replaced, but the goal was to keep the boat in the water and usable if possible. So, I guess I’ll have some mess to clean up, but as long as the pump doesn’t fail, I get to pull,the kids waterskiing again.

One point to note; before I started the engine, he asked if I had the steering centered? I usually do, before I start it. He said many people don’t know it, but it is hard on the outdrive when you start the engine with the wheel hard over.

Who knew?

Weird - if the boat is in neutral when you start it I don't see how the direction of the drive really matters...unless he meant it was hard on the PS Pump maybe?

Bfun220 wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 9:51 am I really dont worry weather my steering is centered or not when starting. I always start mine with the boat in neutral.

But the question is where is the transmission? I assume the output shaft of the engine goes directly into the outdrive through a series of u joints but that output is connected to the forward/reverse/neutral positions through the transmission in the outdrive unit? If that is correct, then the moving u joints would be at maximum extension if the outdrive was hard over on startup and while idling.

I didn't see anything in the manual about this and it doesn't seem like a big deal to me to center the drive before starting. I do this as a matter of course anyway, but not because I was concerned about u joint wear. It is simply to make backing out of the slip easier. I found that by centring the drive before I start the engine and put it into reverse, the boat starts head straight back with the bow following it. The first few times I came into the dock I turned the steering hard right while coasting, applying light reverse throttle to bring the stern closer to the dock, I found myself shutting the engine off and leaving the wheel in that position (congratulating myself on getting into the slip without hitting anything). Then when I backed out the next time, the bow would swing to port and it took my brain a few seconds to figure out what was going wrong and how to counter it. It seemed simpler just to center the wheel after I dock as a matter of practice, so it was in the straight position when I backed out.

On this basis, I can avoid the debate about the impact on the u joints.

You know whats fun? Running across the lake Wide Open with your friends and family, music blasting, and a six pack or two or three of your favorite beverage on ice in the cooler. You what isn't fun? Stressing over U Joints Which way the drive is pointed, and fueling procedures. Go Enjoy Your Boat!

NautiGirl wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 12:44 pm You know whats fun? Running across the lake Wide Open with your friends and family, music blasting, and a six pack or two or three of your favorite beverage on ice in the cooler. You what isn't fun? Stressing over U Joints Which way the drive is pointed, and fueling procedures. Go Enjoy Your Boat!

I'm not stressed. I just passed on a comment from a service tech that I thought might be useful to someone. Worn U joints would never affect me - I don't keep stuff long enough for parts to wear out. As to running across the lake wide open - I tend to save that for my 300HP Sea-Doo. The boat is used for cruising and waterskiing or floating while we lounge under the bimini and read a book or listen to music. And if that isn't boring enough - I don't drink (alcohol, that is). eeeek!!

BobRae99 wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:09 pm

NautiGirl wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 12:44 pm You know whats fun? Running across the lake Wide Open with your friends and family, music blasting, and a six pack or two or three of your favorite beverage on ice in the cooler. You what isn't fun? Stressing over U Joints Which way the drive is pointed, and fueling procedures. Go Enjoy Your Boat!

I'm not stressed. I just passed on a comment from a service tech that I thought might be useful to someone. Worn U joints would never affect me - I don't keep stuff long enough for parts to wear out. As to running across the lake wide open - I tend to save that for my 300HP Sea-Doo. The boat is used for cruising and waterskiing or floating while we lounge under the bimini and read a book or listen to music. And if that isn't boring enough - I don't drink (alcohol, that is). eeeek!!

I was just trying to be funny.

Sounds like you have a great laid-back attitude.

Doesn't sound boring at all. Sounds like your on the water having a great time in a great boat.

Bfun220 wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:41 pm

BobRae99 wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:09 pm

NautiGirl wrote: Fri Jul 27, 2018 12:44 pm You know whats fun? Running across the lake Wide Open with your friends and family, music blasting, and a six pack or two or three of your favorite beverage on ice in the cooler. You what isn't fun? Stressing over U Joints Which way the drive is pointed, and fueling procedures. Go Enjoy Your Boat!

I'm not stressed. I just passed on a comment from a service tech that I thought might be useful to someone. Worn U joints would never affect me - I don't keep stuff long enough for parts to wear out. As to running across the lake wide open - I tend to save that for my 300HP Sea-Doo. The boat is used for cruising and waterskiing or floating while we lounge under the bimini and read a book or listen to music. And if that isn't boring enough - I don't drink (alcohol, that is). eeeek!!

I was just trying to be funny.

Sounds like you have a great laid-back attitude.

Doesn't sound boring at all. Sounds like your on the water having a great time in a great boat.

I try not to get too much excited about this stuff, maybe it’s my advancing age (60). I’ll clean up the bilge and keep going. My 11 year old wants to ski after supper. As long as the steering is working and I have more fluid (just kidding, it’s not leaking that much), I’ll keep pulling her until the new part comes in.

It’s the weekend!!!!

This was another ad on this thread. Hint! I wonder?

I bought a 1995 252 with around 450 hours on it in July. The first time I had it filled completely full with fuel, I got some fuel in the bilge. I cleaned that up and never filled it full again. That stopped the fuel in the bilge problem, but I feel like there's more fuel fumes than there should be. The fuel fill hose seems good and tight. There seems to be some discoloration around then fuel sender though. I don't know how to check the fuel vent. Any thoughts?

If you have a access cover to the fuel sender I would remove that and check it. There will be a rubber gasket between the server and the tank. It's prob bad or a hose there is loose.

RickMott wrote: Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:39 pm I bought a 1995 252 with around 450 hours on it in July. The first time I had it filled completely full with fuel, I got some fuel in the bilge. I cleaned that up and never filled it full again. That stopped the fuel in the bilge problem, but I feel like there's more fuel fumes than there should be. The fuel fill hose seems good and tight. There seems to be some discoloration around then fuel sender though. I don't know how to check the fuel vent. Any thoughts?

I never got to the bottom of my fuel odour problem after filling the tank completely on my 210. The dealer said there was nothing wrong with the boat and I never filled it to completely full after that.

I bought an R3 the next year (2019) and have filled it to the top of the tank several times without any fuel smell in the bilge or lockers.

If you have a fuel smell, there is a leak somewhere - be it the fuel lines or connections or in the venting system. All of the fumes should be venting overboard.

BobRae99 wrote: Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:21 am

RickMott wrote: Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:39 pm I bought a 1995 252 with around 450 hours on it in July. The first time I had it filled completely full with fuel, I got some fuel in the bilge. I cleaned that up and never filled it full again. That stopped the fuel in the bilge problem, but I feel like there's more fuel fumes than there should be. The fuel fill hose seems good and tight. There seems to be some discoloration around then fuel sender though. I don't know how to check the fuel vent. Any thoughts?

I never got to the bottom of my fuel odour problem after filling the tank completely on my 210. The dealer said there was nothing wrong with the boat and I never filled it to completely full after that.

I bought an R3 the next year (2019) and have filled it to the top of the tank several times without any fuel smell in the bilge or lockers.

If you have a fuel smell, there is a leak somewhere - be it the fuel lines or connections or in the venting system. All of the fumes should be venting overboard.

Remember, boats are not closed fuel systems like cars. The fumes do vent "overboard" - to atmosphere. If you fill it up enough you will smell it.

I’m aware of that but the key is they have to vent overboard, not into the bilge or storage areas. As I wrote earlier, I’ve filled my R3 to the pump “click off” several times during the past season and haven’t had the same issue. There had to be something loose in my 210. No longer my problem though.

So, I have purchased a new 2019 CS23 and the dealer found this issue today right before he delivered it. I am bummed. There is a hairline crack in the fuel tank. Is does not leak much, but I have no boat until they figure out what to do about it. Hopefully not the issue you have but something to keep in mind.

A cracked tank would suck. A loose line no big deal.
Factory has plenty of tanks. Not sure how they would get the tank out of the boat once it's built though. I don't think it will squeeze through the access hole.

Nope. Apparently only three options. First is a plastic solder/weld of the existing tank. Not a fan of that one. The other two are to remove the entire engine or remove the top half of the boat. Talk about major surgery. They are calling the factory tomorrow so we will see. On the plus side, they delivered a brand new 2020 CS23 with the same engine for me to use until this gets sorted out. Talk about top shelf service. Walker’s Point Marina if you are even considering a Cobalt in Ontario.