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Kate wrote: Thu Apr 27, 2023 8:57 am That's a lot of shock and vibration, which can cause a loose connection somewhere. Check, for example, if the kill switch is grounded out.

Kill switch has nothing to do with the starter cranking.

"Kill switch has nothing to do with the starter cranking."

You know far more than I do about such issues.

My lay understanding is that it depends on the type of kill switch and how it was wired.

Is that incorrect?

Kate wrote: Sun Apr 30, 2023 10:13 am "Kill switch has nothing to do with the starter cranking."

You know far more than I do about such issues.

My lay understanding is that it depends on the type of kill switch and how it was wired.

Is that incorrect?

The purpose of the kill switch is to disable the engine from running by removing the ignition power. It's for when you fall off the boat. Having the starter disabled when you fall off the boat isn't going to turn off the engine.

Received the new Manual 30 Rev 2006 set...of course, it has much of the same info as well as updates to the 2000 revision. It's broken into four volumes of several sections each. Section 1C Troubleshooting covers a high level list of items to check for Engine will Not Crank, which includes the items I listed in the original post...I've attached a photo, the top section is Engine Will Not Crank Over. I have completed items 1-4:

1.0 - Remote control lever not in Neutral position -- attempted to st art while moving the lever back & forth slowly past the neutral position...no change.
1.1 - Attempted to start in Battery 1, Battery 2 and both Batteries. Batteries are both good and fully charged. Could not locate any damaged wiring, no loose connections that I can detect by hand. STILL NEED TO VERIFY MAIN POWER RELAY status.
1.2 - Circuit breaker tripped. Checked both the under dash and 50A circuit breaker on the engine -- neither was tripped.
1.3 - Blown fuse. The inline fuse on the ignition wire--under the dash--is intact -- resistance reads .01-.02 ohms.
1.4 - Replaced ignition switch because I was able to get a new oem with key for cheap...no change in status.

I know, never should throw parts at an issue without knowing what is faulty...BUT, I have access to a new oem Mercury starter with solenoid for $100...thinking that would be a good "reliability" investment to install a new one in an 18 year old boat, and clean up the old one to keep as a spare. That would leave just three potential causes:

1. Faulty Main Power Relay
2. Faulty Neutral Start Safety Switch, and/or
3. Loose electrical connection (Manual 30 Rev 2006 has Electrical in Section 4, and includes only Ignition System and Charging System...neither has what I need to troubleshoot my issue). So, I will need to get a 263 electrical schematic from Cobalt to do any in depth wire chasing. I think at this point I will do my best to trace the circuit and check the connections and, if that fails, take it to my local Cobalt shop. Otherwise I can see this eating up the entire 2023 boating season.

AG: Thanks for the detailed update. Please do let us know what you discover.

Kate wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 8:26 am AG: Thanks for the detailed update. Please do let us know what you discover.

Thanks for the interest, Kate. Curiously, these manuals--or the troubleshooting sections, at least--are not like factory automotive manuals I have used in the past. As shown on the page I included above, it has a list of items to check but no instructions for where the part is located or how to check it. Maybe I just have not figured out the manuals yet, but it is a bit frustrating, to say the least.

Are you getting power to the starter when you try to crank it. If not, there is no reason to release the parts cannon with unnecessary parts yet.

kas232ca wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 3:52 pm Are you getting power to the starter when you try to crank it. If not, there is no reason to release the parts cannon with unnecessary parts yet.

I know that you are right...I hate throwing parts at a problem but, for me, it is a sort of "Hail Mary" before taking it to a shop. But the good news is, I JUST FOUND THE ISSUE!

I went out to try to jumper across the starter solenoid but found that I could not get the jumper on the posts with the starter installed...too many hoses and wiring harness in the way. So, I was tracing the wiring from the starter and started looking closely at the neutral safety switch. I put the remote control (shift/throttle lever) in Forward and looked at the ball detent position on the cam, then in Reverse and again observed the ball detent position...then I placed it in Neutral and the ball detent appeared to still be depressed into the switch the same level as when riding on the cams. So, I manipulated the ball detent with a small screw driver and it appeared to raise out of the switch a bit more than it was. I turned the key and it started! So, I am assuming that there is either debris obstructing the ball in the switch or, less likely, the spring has gotten weak...or maybe a combination. In any event, I will buy another neutral safety switch to install and clean up the old switch with contact cleaner and keep it in the spare parts kit.

"I went out to try to jumper across . . ."

Very clever diagnosis. Congratulations on solving the mystery.

Avg_Guy wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 6:06 pm

kas232ca wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 3:52 pm Are you getting power to the starter when you try to crank it. If not, there is no reason to release the parts cannon with unnecessary parts yet.

I know that you are right...I hate throwing parts at a problem but, for me, it is a sort of "Hail Mary" before taking it to a shop. But the good news is, I JUST FOUND THE ISSUE!

I went out to try to jumper across the starter solenoid but found that I could not get the jumper on the posts with the starter installed...too many hoses and wiring harness in the way. So, I was tracing the wiring from the starter and started looking closely at the neutral safety switch. I put the remote control (shift/throttle lever) in Forward and looked at the ball detent position on the cam, then in Reverse and again observed the ball detent position...then I placed it in Neutral and the ball detent appeared to still be depressed into the switch the same level as when riding on the cams. So, I manipulated the ball detent with a small screw driver and it appeared to raise out of the switch a bit more than it was. I turned the key and it started! So, I am assuming that there is either debris obstructing the ball in the switch or, less likely, the spring has gotten weak...or maybe a combination. In any event, I will buy another neutral safety switch to install and clean up the old switch with contact cleaner and keep it in the spare parts kit.

That put a smile on my face.

Kate wrote: Sat May 06, 2023 8:17 am "I went out to try to jumper across . . ."

Very clever diagnosis. Congratulations on solving the mystery.

I was elated when the engine turned over.

Krob1114 wrote: Sat May 06, 2023 8:37 am

Avg_Guy wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 6:06 pm

kas232ca wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 3:52 pm Are you getting power to the starter when you try to crank it. If not, there is no reason to release the parts cannon with unnecessary parts yet.

I know that you are right...I hate throwing parts at a problem but, for me, it is a sort of "Hail Mary" before taking it to a shop. But the good news is, I JUST FOUND THE ISSUE!

I went out to try to jumper across the starter solenoid but found that I could not get the jumper on the posts with the starter installed...too many hoses and wiring harness in the way. So, I was tracing the wiring from the starter and started looking closely at the neutral safety switch. I put the remote control (shift/throttle lever) in Forward and looked at the ball detent position on the cam, then in Reverse and again observed the ball detent position...then I placed it in Neutral and the ball detent appeared to still be depressed into the switch the same level as when riding on the cams. So, I manipulated the ball detent with a small screw driver and it appeared to raise out of the switch a bit more than it was. I turned the key and it started! So, I am assuming that there is either debris obstructing the ball in the switch or, less likely, the spring has gotten weak...or maybe a combination. In any event, I will buy another neutral safety switch to install and clean up the old switch with contact cleaner and keep it in the spare parts kit.

That put a smile on my face.

Me too, I was ear-to-ear...could physically feel my spirit lift!

Glad you found the cause!