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akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

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I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

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AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

At least you can just uncover the back and turn the switch on. Mine is in the dumbest place I've seen on any boat, against the back seat bulkhead inside the rear bench storage, so I need to uncover, climb in, remove the cushion, and move the life jackets stored there to get at the switch...

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:12 am

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

At least you can just uncover the back and turn the switch on. Mine is in the dumbest place I've seen on any boat, against the back seat bulkhead inside the rear bench storage, so I need to uncover, climb in, remove the cushion, and move the life jackets stored there to get at the switch...

.
Ha...that's exactly what I have to do. (all except moving the lifejackets.) I usually crawl thru the center "tunnel" and then remove the cushion, to reach down and turn the switch ON. Sometimes I feel like a Carnival contortionist.

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AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:21 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:12 am

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

At least you can just uncover the back and turn the switch on. Mine is in the dumbest place I've seen on any boat, against the back seat bulkhead inside the rear bench storage, so I need to uncover, climb in, remove the cushion, and move the life jackets stored there to get at the switch...

.
Ha...that's exactly what I have to do. (all except moving the lifejackets.) I usually crawl thru the center "tunnel" and then remove the cushion, to reach down and turn the switch ON. Sometimes I feel like a Carnival contortionist.

.

I don't have a walk through, so I end up unsnapping the back 3rd of the cover and army crawling in, trying not to fall and knock down the support pole, usually while holding my phone as a flashlight to see WTH I'm doing. Getting too old for that crap, luckily the kids are getting old enough to send in for things like this!

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:24 am

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:21 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:12 am

At least you can just uncover the back and turn the switch on. Mine is in the dumbest place I've seen on any boat, against the back seat bulkhead inside the rear bench storage, so I need to uncover, climb in, remove the cushion, and move the life jackets stored there to get at the switch...

.
Ha...that's exactly what I have to do. (all except moving the lifejackets.) I usually crawl thru the center "tunnel" and then remove the cushion, to reach down and turn the switch ON. Sometimes I feel like a Carnival contortionist.

.

I don't have a walk through, so I end up unsnapping the back 3rd of the cover and army crawling in, trying not to fall and knock down the support pole, usually while holding my phone as a flashlight to see WTH I'm doing. Getting too old for that crap, luckily the kids are getting old enough to send in for things like this!

.
That's funny akor ...You and I have similar thoughts there brother. Document your install. Then I'll be motivated to change my wiring around from Switched HOT battery bus to HOT battery bus....and no more Army crawling.

.

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

I missed this (I'm new to boating). So when storing the boat, you should lower the leg a couple inches to protect the bellows?

jasondon wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 12:02 pm

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

I missed this (I'm new to boating). So when storing the boat, you should lower the leg a couple inches to protect the bellows?

Yes. When is stored up the bellows are fully extended and is hard on them.
When I installed my transom trim switch it was plug and play. Also the mercury transom switch works on Volvo too. I didn't have to wire anything in to it. I leave! Battery switch turned on all year. I never turn it off. I've yet to be stranded at the launch. Yes I can trim mine anytime. No need for a key

jasondon wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 12:02 pm

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

I missed this (I'm new to boating). So when storing the boat, you should lower the leg a couple inches to protect the bellows?

.
Yes...boat bellows tend to last longer when you store the outdrive in the lowered position. It's basically a rubber accordion piece that can dry out and crack due to heat, harsh weather or age.

Boat bellows seal the water out where the universal joint, shift cable and exhaust run between boat and drive. Their flexibility allows the drive to trim and turn while under way.

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Wow thank you, greatly appreciated.
So the question is what is cheaper, bellows or leg repair when I drive away and forget to raise it back up

jasondon wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 12:34 pm Wow thank you, greatly appreciated.
So the question is what is cheaper, bellows or leg repair when I drive away and forget to raise it back up

One is covered by insurance the other isn't.

And at one time you will do both.

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 12:17 pm

jasondon wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 12:02 pm

AsLan7 wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:38 am

.
I agree with you akor. Wire the transom trim switch directly to the battery (or HOT battery bus). That's the best option IMHO. I forget how many times I've covered our boat while it's on the trailer....went to lower the outdrive slightly before leaving (to protect the bellows) and realized the battery switch was off.
... ugggh... uncover the back of the boat to turn the battery switch ON again for that transom trim to function.

.

I missed this (I'm new to boating). So when storing the boat, you should lower the leg a couple inches to protect the bellows?

.
Yes...boat bellows tend to last longer when you store the outdrive in the lowered position. It's basically a rubber accordion piece that can dry out and crack due to heat, harsh weather or age.

Boat bellows seal the water out where the universal joint, shift cable and exhaust run between boat and drive. Their flexibility allows the drive to trim and turn while under way.

.

Wow.....mines been up ever since I bought it,we'll over a year ago. I may be in trouble there. Never thought it would do that.

So at what age do you experienced guys (or gals) replace your bellows? Mine are probably 11 years old.
Bought a '66 Evinrude Sportsman in '73, that the rubber boot lasted the 15 years I had the boat... never
leaked, but seemed pretty stiff towards the end.

akorcovelos wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:28 am I eventually plan to install a transom trim switch, but I'm going directly to the battery. I want to be able to control the trim with the boat on the trailer, covered, and the battery switch off. Seems kinda pointless if the battery switch needs to be on, as in my case, if the switch is on the boat is opened up and ready to run.

That's how I want to change mine.

okielaker wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 10:06 pm So at what age do you experienced guys (or gals) replace your bellows? Mine are probably 11 years old.
Bought a '66 Evinrude Sportsman in '73, that the rubber boot lasted the 15 years I had the boat... never
leaked, but seemed pretty stiff towards the end.

Mine are 16 and I'm sure they are getting to the end. I'll have to poke my head under there this year. At the end of the season I might have the drive pulled and get them done then. The good part is my boat Doesn't sit in the water. That would be much harder on them. But I think most of us have seen pictures of a boat that sunk because of bad bellows. Volvo does have some issues with there's leaking too and taking out the bearings and joints.

I replace bellow any time the drive has to come off, and at a minimum every 4 years. That my rule of thumb, the manuals say to remove the drive and inspect all that stuff annually, though I know very few people who actually do that. I've also always kept my drive trimmed all the way up for storage, never had one fail due to it. If the rubber is going to 'set' it doesn't matter what position you're in, when you move it to the opposite position it's going to fail. My .02, and that's all it's worth.