I try. I had the same stack of stuff sitting in a room last year. It's just money right? Think how awesome it will sound in a cove next year.
Yes - you will need to space the sub out to make it fit...ask me how I know. Katie and I came up /w all kinds of ideas to try to make it fit flush with the fiberglass. My first idea was to space the carpeted board farther into the compartment, nope there is a stringer that makes a bump in the compartment so that idea wont work. Next idea was to cut the board to fit farther up in the compartment but I couldn't really do that without messing up the carpet.justchillin wrote: Wed Dec 18, 2019 5:31 pm OK all the wires are run. 175 ft of 12 gauge speaker and 1 gauge power and ground all terminating in the forward port storage area. Speakers are in except the sub and tower. Towers are still on there way.
I'm ready to cut the sub hole and wire it in. Gonna have to measure 7 times before I cut! For the sub I'm probably gonna use my roto zip with the circle attachment. The only problem I see so far is the depth of the sub against the rear carpeted board in the back of the compartment. I might have to get creative and space the board out a bit.
Easiest thing to do is to order a starboard spacer from these guys: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/custom-s ... trim-rings It's a little pricey, but its also CNC cut to your exact dimensions. By the time you add up the starboard I ruined trying to cut my own w/ a dremel just ordering it was cheaper. Here is how it turned out:
The Amp manual covers the way the remote level controls works, the way its labeled on the amp really isn't that clear. We have a sony head unit with two sets of RCA's as well as a dedicated set of Sub RCA's. Here is how I did mine:justchillin wrote: Wed Dec 18, 2019 5:31 pm
As for wiring it all in...... I've got 2 M600/6. I was planning on using one for the 6 MX650s and the other for the tower and sub. The fader would control the tower speakers. My current Sony head unit has 2 sets of audio out rca plugs, front and rear. It also has a pig tail rca output for the sub. How do I connect the rca cords and what settings do I select on the amps? I assuming one rca cord will go from the fwd audio out to the ch 1&2 of the #1 amp for the 6 speakers. I'm also assuming I'd select the input mode on the amp to 2 Ch.
The rear audio out would go to the ch 1&2 of the #2 amp along and the with pig tailed sub cord going to ch 3&4. 5&6 would be empty. Again I'm assuming I'd set the input to 4 Ch.
How about the remote level control for the sub? It plugs into the back of the #2 amp. The selector switch for it says all, 3-6 and 5&6. If my sub is wired into ch 3&4 and I set it at 3-6 will that work for the sub level only?
What else???
Amp 1 - Single RCA output from the head unit to the Amp. Set the Amp to 2 Channel and it will send the single input to all six channels.
Amp 2 - Set to Six channel mode so each channel has its own input. Channels 1 - 2 are bridged for the sub. They have a dedicated set of RCA's from the head unit sub output. I then used Y Adapters to split the other head unit output into four channels. Channels 3 - 4 are bridged for one tower, 5 and 6 for the other tower.
If you want to control the Sub volume with the Remote level control but not affect the volume of the towers you are going to add you just need to shift things around a bit. Wire the Sub bridged to 5 and 6. Then set the Remote Level Mode switch to 5 & 6. IT will then Control the level of the sub leaving the other channels unaffected.
Make sense?
