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Do you plan on running a sub at all? I would run a 6 channel no matter what for your cockpit. And another amp for your towers.

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:20 pm Do you plan on running a sub at all? I would run a 6 channel no matter what for your cockpit. And another amp for your towers.

I might add a sub later down the road, depending on how Mich these tower speakers do for me. That is if I can grow a pair and cut into the boat. I did order a flag pole that I will installed next week, so that should help with some of my jitters. Lol

TTU wrote: Thu Jun 27, 2019 5:00 am I did order a flag pole that I will installed next week, so that should help with some of my jitters. Lol

You might want to get rid of those jitters before cutting any hole. Just saying.

Just get a sub box instead of cutting.

Islander208 wrote: Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:51 pm My BBP influenced speaker upgrade.Screenshot_20190423-215515_Photos.jpgScreenshot_20190423-215533_Photos.jpgScreenshot_20190423-215455_Photos.jpg Finally got rid of my stock Sony speakers. Installed some budget friendly kicker speakers. I had bought RGB boat plug light for myself for Christmas with remote. Ran power from the docking light wire in the bow. Installed box for remote behind port bow seat. Remote box has two inputs so was able to use it for the speakers as well. But, once I had it all buttoned up, wasn't really happy with the sound. So, ordered an amp, speaker wire, and 4 gauge amp kit. Now it sounds great. I'm sure it's not JL or Wetsounds quality; definitely a few steps up from where I came from. Granted I'm coming from stock speakers powered by my head unit which I upgraded two years ago(Sony DSX-M50BT I think). But, I'm more than happy with the results. Now, hoping to get out on the water Friday to see how it sounds at the lake. Almost forgot, got a Rockville RXM8BBTB class D 8 channel amp.

Did you have to drill new holes for the 6.5" kickers, or did they line up with the factory Sony holes?

ATX Cobalt wrote: Mon Jul 22, 2019 9:59 am

Islander208 wrote: Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:51 pm My BBP influenced speaker upgrade.Screenshot_20190423-215515_Photos.jpgScreenshot_20190423-215533_Photos.jpgScreenshot_20190423-215455_Photos.jpg Finally got rid of my stock Sony speakers. Installed some budget friendly kicker speakers. I had bought RGB boat plug light for myself for Christmas with remote. Ran power from the docking light wire in the bow. Installed box for remote behind port bow seat. Remote box has two inputs so was able to use it for the speakers as well. But, once I had it all buttoned up, wasn't really happy with the sound. So, ordered an amp, speaker wire, and 4 gauge amp kit. Now it sounds great. I'm sure it's not JL or Wetsounds quality; definitely a few steps up from where I came from. Granted I'm coming from stock speakers powered by my head unit which I upgraded two years ago(Sony DSX-M50BT I think). But, I'm more than happy with the results. Now, hoping to get out on the water Friday to see how it sounds at the lake. Almost forgot, got a Rockville RXM8BBTB class D 8 channel amp.

Did you have to drill new holes for the 6.5" kickers, or did they line up with the factory Sony holes?

Did not line up....had to drill new holes

Got it, thanks!

Okay another Nauti (and others) influenced build. I’m improving my 2013 232 stock audio system. Just ordered all JL stuff. MX 650s for the inside 6, M6 10 sub, M6 770s for the tower and 2 m600/6 for the power. I’m keeping the Sony head unit so my remotes will work. I’m just gonna add the JL Bluetooth. I have 2 batteries on a Perko. Planning on running 1 ga power to the Perko switch and the same to the house battery neg. Also planning on new 12 ga speaker wire to all.
So my questions are.......
How hard is it to run the wires? I take it the right speakers go from the port locker around the front and down the the other side. Any tricks y’all found while doing it? The left side would seem easier. What about the power wire? Is it a PIA to run 2 wires to the engine compartment?

Mrs. Nauti here, lead wire-puller in our stereo upgrade...no this is not a difficult task...long arms help but you can work around that. Seriously, lay down on the floor and look up...the sides are all open and very easy to access the space all down the boat to pull the wires to the engine compartment. There should be some cable management tracks in there and you might even be able to get the wires to run thru so they are all tucked away nicely.

Bring patience but you got this. Mr. Nauti hated this part of the job but you got this!

It really wasn't hard to run. Just leave all of your speakers out till you're done running the wires. What ever gives you access remove it. Where the 2 halves of the boat come together they have a nice wire conduit holder. I could get all of my wires in that, so they are all tucked away. You could run the power wires to the amp and then T off of them by the amp. I think that's What I would have changed if I had to do mine over. Sounds like a nice set up. Can't wait to hear it and watch it come together.

You could run the power wires to the amp and then T off of them by the amp. I think that's What I would have changed if I had to do mine over.

Wetsounds makes a really nice power block I’m planning on using. Basically it’s a separate pos and neg 1 ga input and 2 separate 4ga outputs. The neg has a straight blade and the pos is an anl fuse. So I was planning on bringing both 1 ga leads to that and then split it down to 2 sets of 4ga to each amp.

justchillin wrote: Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:14 pm

You could run the power wires to the amp and then T off of them by the amp. I think that's What I would have changed if I had to do mine over.

Wetsounds makes a really nice power block I’m planning on using. Basically it’s a separate pos and neg 1 ga input and 2 separate 4ga outputs. The neg has a straight blade and the pos is an anl fuse. So I was planning on bringing both 1 ga leads to that and then split it down to 2 sets of 4ga to each amp.

Yep sounds great. I used cable ends on each cable. Looks nice and you don't have frayed wires anywhere. Glad I did that. Also used circuit breaker instead of fuses. Color matched the pis and neg heat shrink. Just helped it being fool proof.
Also run your rgb wire right away for your leds.

$h!1s about to get real! It’s all your fault Nauti.

Boom boom boom she's going to go. Nice. Is it done yet

OK all the wires are run. 175 ft of 12 gauge speaker and 1 gauge power and ground all terminating in the forward port storage area. Speakers are in except the sub and tower. Towers are still on there way.

I'm ready to cut the sub hole and wire it in. Gonna have to measure 7 times before I cut! For the sub I'm probably gonna use my roto zip with the circle attachment. The only problem I see so far is the depth of the sub against the rear carpeted board in the back of the compartment. I might have to get creative and space the board out a bit.

As for wiring it all in...... I've got 2 M600/6. I was planning on using one for the 6 MX650s and the other for the tower and sub. The fader would control the tower speakers. My current Sony head unit has 2 sets of audio out rca plugs, front and rear. It also has a pig tail rca output for the sub. How do I connect the rca cords and what settings do I select on the amps? I assuming one rca cord will go from the fwd audio out to the ch 1&2 of the #1 amp for the 6 speakers. I'm also assuming I'd select the input mode on the amp to 2 Ch.
The rear audio out would go to the ch 1&2 of the #2 amp along and the with pig tailed sub cord going to ch 3&4. 5&6 would be empty. Again I'm assuming I'd set the input to 4 Ch.

How about the remote level control for the sub? It plugs into the back of the #2 amp. The selector switch for it says all, 3-6 and 5&6. If my sub is wired into ch 3&4 and I set it at 3-6 will that work for the sub level only?

What else???