New Member, New Boat - Lake Tahoe

[iboatmon]

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I promised I would post some pictures as soon as I took delivery of my new (to me) Cobalt 273.

Here are a few if my questions.

1. Where does the water from the sinks drain to... the bilge, overboard,or the wast water tank?

2. When I used the windlass for the first time, the line kinked and the windlass would just turn without taking in line. What is the best way to fix this?

3. My boat is documented with the USCG. Are there any documented vessels out there and would you recommend keeping it or registering with the state? If there are documented vessels similar to mine on the forum, where did you place your Certificate Number inside the boat?

Thanks!

[tgrace98]

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I promised I would post some pictures as soon as I took delivery of my new (to me) Cobalt 273.

Here are a few if my questions.

1. Where does the water from the sinks drain to... the bilge, overboard,or the wast water tank?

2. When I used the windlass for the first time, the line kinked and the windlass would just turn without taking in line. What is the best way to fix this?

3. My boat is documented with the USCG. Are there any documented vessels out there and would you recommend keeping it or registering with the state? If there are documented vessels similar to mine on the forum, where did you place your Certificate Number inside the boat?

Thanks!

Welcome aboard! Love your boat and would love to see some interior pics.

I can’t answer the first 2 but I can answer number 3.

I have mine registered through the USCG and I did it for 2 reasons. Sales tax was a lot cheaper going USCG registration. It was about 30% cheaper for me. And I didn’t want numbers on my boat. I mounted the certification number on the starboard side in the engine compartment

[AsLan7]

Great pics boatmon. Thank you for posting.

...and as mentioned in the other thread, great to have you here!

Since TG98 answered number three, I’ll chime in on 1 & 2.

Your sink drains into the lake via those side outlets on your hull.

For question number two, our forum windlass expert, Cmattj, will pass down some of his windlass wisdom.

.

[CaptainTom]

That's my old boat! She looks really good in her new berth. I'm so glad you got her and are on the forum posting pictures. I always thought she would look good in Tahoe.

1. They do drain overboard. Run them and watch for the water to come overboard. The cockpit floor drains drain in to the bilge if I remember correctly.

2. We never used the windlass. I was afraid of not being able to retrieve it (our lake has trees at the bottom and I lost an anchor to those trees on a different boat once). I did polish the anchor a few times. When we did our boat orientation, I remember learning that if the windlass was slipping, that the windlass clutch needed to be tightened. I think you put your palm on the top and turn it the head but I would definitely research the issue some more before doing that. There might be a different issue as well. I know that you need to take the tension of the line before running the windlass. It's not like a winch on a jeep.

3. As you know, we never installed the USCG numbers to the hull. I was hesitant to drill any holes in the boat, so I really dragged my feet doing that but always had the plaque with the number in the boat. I was going to put it in the bilge somewhere. We registered it with the USCG rather than in Texas because I didn't want to put the Texas letters on the boat. You don't avoid sales tax in Texas by documenting with the USCG.

[CaptainTom]

A little bit of 273 trivia I heard at a boat show.... About a third of the 273s Cobalt made were exported to Europe.

[Bobo87]

Welcome aboard Iboatmon and congratulations on the new boat.

[cmattj]

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I promised I would post some pictures as soon as I took delivery of my new (to me) Cobalt 273.

Here are a few if my questions.

1. Where does the water from the sinks drain to... the bilge, overboard,or the wast water tank?

2. When I used the windlass for the first time, the line kinked and the windlass would just turn without taking in line. What is the best way to fix this?

3. My boat is documented with the USCG. Are there any documented vessels out there and would you recommend keeping it or registering with the state? If there are documented vessels similar to mine on the forum, where did you place your Certificate Number inside the boat?

Thanks!

Welcome from the Delta.

Windlass chain to rope. As 10-15 of chain to the anchor is standard usually and at that point they chatter but should not slip or kink as long as you aren't using the windlass to pull the boat towards your anchorage.

But easy to set the clutch. First side tie to a dock where we can release it and capture it on the dock.

Let out 30-40 feet with someone guiding it to the dock. That will give you space to insure the windlass compartment isn't tangled up with rope.

Clutch. As you retrieve the rope use 3 seconds then pause to insure is dropping in the well centered, or close to it.

Clutches can loose grip overtime and since the previous owner never used it she will need service and cleaning. There is two tools that have torx heads on them. One is 3 feet long and usually in your floor locker by the Bimini poles. It's used if the windlass fails and you cal loosen the clutch to manually retrieve.
The short adjustment wrench will have the same torx fitting. You can release the anchor clutch at the windlass as it outboard with this tool and it the tool to tighten also

Almost like setting the drag in a fishing pole as your windlass is designed to retrieve the anchor weight. Not pull the boat. Loosen then tighten the clutch with the torx. That will allow any debris to fall away.
Now let's retrieve it up and slowly bump it in.
Secure the chain to the cable test her or lock the windlass and your secure.

Always secure the rope or chain when anchored as the tugging will slip the clutch and loosen it.

Sheesh then we get to start over.haha. Once there set you'll never want a normal anchor.

USCG.

Mine is that way. One time use tax ( yes they find you) but registration is cheap and no crooked cf numbers.
The legal size decal for your numbers are fine Under your hatch so they are visible to a agent who may be boarding your boat. You just open your engine hatch.. he reads them and you close your hatch.
Do not drill holes and mount that pesky plaque.

That's a beauty and we are all wanting some interior pics!! Congrats

[Big Block Power]

Very cool info about the body and PO is here.
Congrats and looks great.

[ATX Cobalt]

Welcome from Texas, beautiful boat!

[Ytmsn]

Welcome from Oklahoma! Beautiful boat and beautiful lake.
Interior pics please....!

Someone told me once that the 270 series used the same hull as the 260 series with a different cap. Is that right A7?

[iboatmon]

That's my old boat! She looks really good in her new berth. I'm so glad you got her and are on the forum posting pictures. I always thought she would look good in Tahoe.

1. They do drain overboard. Run them and watch for the water to come overboard. The cockpit floor drains drain in to the bilge if I remember correctly.

2. We never used the windlass. I was afraid of not being able to retrieve it (our lake has trees at the bottom and I lost an anchor to those trees on a different boat once). I did polish the anchor a few times. When we did our boat orientation, I remember learning that if the windlass was slipping, that the windlass clutch needed to be tightened. I think you put your palm on the top and turn it the head but I would definitely research the issue some more before doing that. There might be a different issue as well. I know that you need to take the tension of the line before running the windlass. It's not like a winch on a jeep.

3. As you know, we never installed the USCG numbers to the hull. I was hesitant to drill any holes in the boat, so I really dragged my feet doing that but always had the plaque with the number in the boat. I was going to put it in the bilge somewhere. We registered it with the USCG rather than in Texas because I didn't want to put the Texas letters on the boat. You don't avoid sales tax in Texas by documenting with the USCG.

Thanks, Captain Tom...

I thought it might be your boat when I saw you on the forum, but I thought I saw a picture of your boat that showed it had an arch, so I just figured it was another 273 in the Dallas area. I thought you might be interested in knowing that I was also able to contact the original owner, Randy Crawford, who purchased the boat new from Valley Marine, near Omaha, NE, my hometown. I also replied to your PM... Thanks again.

[iboatmon]

Welcome aboard! Love your boat and would love to see some interior pics.

I can’t answer the first 2 but I can answer number 3.

I have mine registered through the USCG and I did it for 2 reasons. Sales tax was a lot cheaper going USCG registration. It was about 30% cheaper for me. And I didn’t want numbers on my boat. I mounted the certification number on the starboard side in the engine compartment

Thanks... I have made up my mind to exchange the (transfer) the Certificate of Documentation. I just think it is a little cleaner and since the vessel is already documented by the USCG, why not keep it.

Did you fasten the plaque with screws or epoxy?

[iboatmon]

Welcome from the Delta.

Windlass chain to rope. As 10-15 of chain to the anchor is standard usually and at that point they chatter but should not slip or kink as long as you aren't using the windlass to pull the boat towards your anchorage.

But easy to set the clutch. First side tie to a dock where we can release it and capture it on the dock.

Let out 30-40 feet with someone guiding it to the dock. That will give you space to insure the windlass compartment isn't tangled up with rope.

Clutch. As you retrieve the rope use 3 seconds then pause to insure is dropping in the well centered, or close to it.

Clutches can loose grip overtime and since the previous owner never used it she will need service and cleaning. There is two tools that have torx heads on them. One is 3 feet long and usually in your floor locker by the Bimini poles. It's used if the windlass fails and you cal loosen the clutch to manually retrieve.
The short adjustment wrench will have the same torx fitting. You can release the anchor clutch at the windlass as it outboard with this tool and it the tool to tighten also

Almost like setting the drag in a fishing pole as your windlass is designed to retrieve the anchor weight. Not pull the boat. Loosen then tighten the clutch with the torx. That will allow any debris to fall away.
Now let's retrieve it up and slowly bump it in.
Secure the chain to the cable test her or lock the windlass and your secure.

Always secure the rope or chain when anchored as the tugging will slip the clutch and loosen it.

Sheesh then we get to start over.haha. Once there set you'll never want a normal anchor.

USCG.

Mine is that way. One time use tax ( yes they find you) but registration is cheap and no crooked cf numbers.
The legal size decal for your numbers are fine Under your hatch so they are visible to a agent who may be boarding your boat. You just open your engine hatch.. he reads them and you close your hatch.
Do not drill holes and mount that pesky plaque.

That's a beauty and we are all wanting some interior pics!! Congrats

Thanks for the detailed info, cmattj. I have boated in the delta several times in the past when I lived in Concord and then Davis, CA.

I need to decide whether to mess with the anchor line I have or just get new line and rode.

[Driller]

Welcome from Austin, TX iBoat.

[iboatmon]

Some more questions...

1. What do you think about removing some of those ugly warning stickers on the transom? Is it legal? Does it present a liability? Will it pass a USCG inspection without those stickers? It sure would make it easier and cleaner to install the boat name and hailing port without those stickers in the way.

2. The first mate is getting after me to get the Jabsco electric marine head up and running and this is all new to me. What do you recommend for the waste tank chemicals and do I just flush it down the toilet? Does the head fill with water every time you push the button to flush? Do you leave water in the bowl all the time? If so, how much?

Thanks