I'm seeking input from the brain trust!
I had my '16 R3 (VP 300 DP) out yesterday for the second time since my recent purchase. The first time it ran like a champ and I also just had the 100 hour service done at 82 hours by a Cobalt dealer. Yesterday, I got about 300-400 yards out from the launch and I noticed my engine temp was climbing beyond what I observed previously as normal (160-170). Just before I shut it down when the temp hit 193 the "check engine" warnings came on both gauges (see pic for style of gauges; circled areas are where the warnings appeared). So I anchored, turned on the blower to pull air to help cool the engine (100 degree day and thought that was better than opening the hatch and letting the sun bake the engine). In the mean time, I got into the water and checked the water intake and it was not blocked. There were no leaks from the water pump and impeller, coolant was full (almost to the high mark, and the oil level was good (checked both coolant and oil before leaving for the launch; all good). I had tools that I could have pulled the impeller, but I didn't have a replacement if ruined (on my short list to purchase to have on the boat). I didn't know to check the flush cap to ensure it was tight (learning as I go).
So I thought about my launch while waiting for the engine temp to drop. I thought I was plenty far in the water, but this launch required me to use reverse a little more than the last time. I also thought about how far down I had the trim. It's a steep launch into shallow water. I figured I might have pulled some sediment during the launch.
After a couple hours of music listening and swimming the engine temp was down to 127. I turned it over, it started and I promptly shut it down. Then I pulled the anchor, started it and headed straight to the launch dock. Right before I got there the temp hit 167 and I was so happy to have made it. Then something happened. The temp dropped to 165 as I was about to dock. I decided (probably against the wisdom of the group) to circle away and boat around the inlet at the launch. The temp stayed between 163 and 167. At that point I decided to motor out into the main body of the lake and ended up running it for about 30 minutes between 3000-4000 rpm. It ran great and the temp varied between 158-171, but stayed around the 165-167 range most of the time.
This leads me to some questions:
1. Is it possible to suck something up and overheat only to let it cool and it runs fine?
2. Outside of checking the impeller and back flushing the raw water system, what do you think would be good things to check/do?
3. On the gauge picture in the circled areas - when you turn your key to on, but don't start it what does the digital screen say? I ask because the boats new to me and I've not paid attention until yesterday after my issue. If I turn the key to on the gauge screen comes up Cobalt, then changes to check engine. I can cycle off that to gauge readings. Is this the proper gauge start-up sequence or do I have other issues since the "check engine" comes on before I turn further to start the engine?
Very much appreciate your input and knowledge. Thank you in advance!
R3 Gauges at start up & weird overheat issue
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kwsbrother
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R3 Gauges at start up & weird overheat issue
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- billk2632
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Re: R3 Gauges at start up & weird overheat issue
I have a 2014 R5 VP-300. My startup procedure is:
1. Turn key to On.
2. Gauges come alive with "Cobalt" > "CheckEngine"
3. Once the "CheckEngine" clears, I start the engine.
Basically I let the gauges boot up before I start the engine. There are times when I forget and just started with no issues, although I have had the gauges go a little wonky if I don't follow this procedure. I had been told by my dealer this was the startup process for the analog gauges.
Regarding temp, yours is closed cooling? If so the 167-170 I think is normal, I am raw water cooled and mine runs 158-160. I think it is possible you got something caught around the water intake - piece of a bag or even leaves. This caused the overheat, but when you stopped the debris, bag what ever floated away. Another thing to be aware of, if you ever use the flush ports up at the engine (ie to run on a trailer) make sure you tighten the cap, if not it can suck air and cause problems. You don't say how old the impeller is, but I would check it at this point - if there was low water flow (there was) it could have damaged it.
1. Turn key to On.
2. Gauges come alive with "Cobalt" > "CheckEngine"
3. Once the "CheckEngine" clears, I start the engine.
Basically I let the gauges boot up before I start the engine. There are times when I forget and just started with no issues, although I have had the gauges go a little wonky if I don't follow this procedure. I had been told by my dealer this was the startup process for the analog gauges.
Regarding temp, yours is closed cooling? If so the 167-170 I think is normal, I am raw water cooled and mine runs 158-160. I think it is possible you got something caught around the water intake - piece of a bag or even leaves. This caused the overheat, but when you stopped the debris, bag what ever floated away. Another thing to be aware of, if you ever use the flush ports up at the engine (ie to run on a trailer) make sure you tighten the cap, if not it can suck air and cause problems. You don't say how old the impeller is, but I would check it at this point - if there was low water flow (there was) it could have damaged it.
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2014 Cobalt R5 - Current
1999 SeaRay 185 Bowrider -Previous
2000 SeaRay 290 SunDancer - Previous
1979 Correct Craft Ski-Tique - Previous
1948 Chris Craft Custom Runabout - Oh man to have that one back!
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kwsbrother
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Re: R3 Gauges at start up & weird overheat issue
Thanks for the info. The impeller was brand new. I had the 100 hr service completed after I bought it and before my maiden voyage. However, to your point it could be cooked at this point.
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